tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32655304308865609712024-03-05T22:08:50.285+08:00馬靴世家Botas手工訂製鞋の雜記分享製鞋經驗、故事與趣事Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-6949216047539069522018-09-11T19:05:00.000+08:002018-09-11T19:07:51.721+08:00男生的隱藏式高跟鞋"內增高鞋" Elevator Shoes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/menshoes/category/15" target="_blank"><img alt="馬靴世家增高皮鞋" border="0" data-original-height="801" data-original-width="1200" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCIL6NVISlHNiLpkJOWqMupQhxxzKC0ZiiXND3J7Ji8Dso5oNzewcItM2BaNX1yiaSdevbmFRkySFBhvzyQF-a4FwTqoXkr27t7qckxPZSdljdF9lMhrEqXYESVYlqAoZSXtJIaTa2X3c/s640/Botas+elevator+shoes+%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="640" /></a>ht<a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/menshoes/category/15" target="_blank">馬靴世家增高皮鞋</a></div>
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<h2>
可比擬為男人的高跟鞋 "增高皮鞋"</h2>
女性可以公開穿高跟鞋以增加身高,但男生穿高跟鞋可能會被視為奇怪的、異類的,其實,男人就跟女人一樣注意自己的外表,也關心自己的身高,因為擁有完美身高比例的男人可以吸引更多異性的注意力和增加自信。<br />
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對於想伸長身材的男人來說內增高鞋的發明是個福音,隱藏式的鞋跟,這秘密的設計可以偷偷增加男生的身高,鞋子看起來像普通的皮鞋並不會讓人感到突兀,穿著內增高皮鞋時,如能為這雙鞋挑選一條長度合適的長褲,確保褲子能夠掩蓋鞋子的“<span style="color: blue;">後跟</span>”,這樣可以產生更長腿的視覺錯覺,並且整體看起來更高、長腿的好比例。<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">內增高紳士皮鞋</span></td></tr>
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增高鞋的結構</h3>
說到增高鞋一般的印象是屬於運動鞋或休閒鞋這類的鞋子,這類鞋的結構都是平底或無鞋跟(如下圖所示)。<br />
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如果要在正裝皮鞋上做內增高(隱形增高),就有些難度,它的困難在於鞋楦要考量二個高度 <b>1.)外部鞋跟高度,2.)內在增高的鞋墊高度</b>。<br />
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為了讓鞋子後踵外觀平順,"馬靴世家"採用<span style="color: #cc0000;">後放增高鞋墊</span>做法,在內銷市場極少用此方式,故在鞋楦開發上花了不少時間呢。<span style="color: #999999;"> (註: 另一種做法是</span><span style="color: #ea9999;">前</span><span style="color: #ea9999;">放鞋墊</span><span style="color: #999999;">,在底工時將增高的EVA貼在楦頭上拉幫,因中間夾一層增高鞋墊接縫地方易有接縫處不平整現象,但這種做法類似做楔型鞋的方式較為</span><span style="color: #999999;">容易,因此大多數鞋廠都用此法做內增高鞋)</span>。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5mSXjldygRi9j89tmaD_FV5kIiXmIp7Y49UXBVKByLBvUgGkAYc0M-1yZRjjc89S9fYkFwg8dj180pedUjH53vJzGxqJT701nlsoitc1ea0qJJ96J_2-i6DesiKIPaNQaLqnu1gu4UM/s1600/%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E4%25BC%2591%25E9%2596%2592%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="372" data-original-width="928" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5mSXjldygRi9j89tmaD_FV5kIiXmIp7Y49UXBVKByLBvUgGkAYc0M-1yZRjjc89S9fYkFwg8dj180pedUjH53vJzGxqJT701nlsoitc1ea0qJJ96J_2-i6DesiKIPaNQaLqnu1gu4UM/s640/%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E4%25BC%2591%25E9%2596%2592%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;"> 常見的增高鞋: 運動鞋和休閒鞋 </span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwoRcckXqXcyJQYccQHlu6savKXUfKtNnql_KVQJK-K885axdmBPS2TyYiFbDfHOzi0hc4cOzaSkN22lyydPnelbK4U9ITwVEVLW24mle72ZbEVFLtAWFwiu9stQPElkW5IvUUX_7j2N8/s1600/%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E6%25A5%25A6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="1000" height="409" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwoRcckXqXcyJQYccQHlu6savKXUfKtNnql_KVQJK-K885axdmBPS2TyYiFbDfHOzi0hc4cOzaSkN22lyydPnelbK4U9ITwVEVLW24mle72ZbEVFLtAWFwiu9stQPElkW5IvUUX_7j2N8/s640/%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E6%25A5%25A6.jpg" title="內增高鞋楦" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;"> 內增高鞋楦頭: 前放鞋墊VS 後放鞋墊 </span></span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-r30XnQKpGzSTvbdYyMrtqnFSFw_j0TS_F_a-gI_cUSvipVOvhSFLssPelXKNB2rifJ2fTtqEIKlI-X6t1kitDS99NyM7-rypW_tzFfNsavLvBuCJnu0yAf28gTLHKIX_lJArQCNd4ys/s1600/%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%2589%258D%25E6%2594%25BE%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25A2%258A%25E5%2581%259A%25E6%25B3%2595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="969" data-original-width="1600" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-r30XnQKpGzSTvbdYyMrtqnFSFw_j0TS_F_a-gI_cUSvipVOvhSFLssPelXKNB2rifJ2fTtqEIKlI-X6t1kitDS99NyM7-rypW_tzFfNsavLvBuCJnu0yAf28gTLHKIX_lJArQCNd4ys/s400/%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%2589%258D%25E6%2594%25BE%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25A2%258A%25E5%2581%259A%25E6%25B3%2595.jpg" title="內增高鞋前放鞋墊做法" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Az08amBXYZd0um2Z2yreFNaLJ4ZAD53O27nMWKgJahQJMfI8eRa9EwI749E4XvnglwDX7yGvMwJjy1C32kFrnCg-q3D78_3KesDXjz4Wt65G-RU2OIfOm3qhUTv0aoPut6la_ESBtRg/s1600/%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%2594%25BE%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25A2%258A%25E5%2581%259A%25E6%25B3%2595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="1000" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Az08amBXYZd0um2Z2yreFNaLJ4ZAD53O27nMWKgJahQJMfI8eRa9EwI749E4XvnglwDX7yGvMwJjy1C32kFrnCg-q3D78_3KesDXjz4Wt65G-RU2OIfOm3qhUTv0aoPut6la_ESBtRg/s400/%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25BE%258C%25E6%2594%25BE%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25A2%258A%25E5%2581%259A%25E6%25B3%2595.jpg" title="內增高鞋後放鞋墊做法" width="400" /></a></div>
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另一種增高方式"增高鞋墊"</h3>
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市面上也有提供快速解決方案~使用"<span style="color: blue;"><b>增高鞋墊</b></span>",這只是將"增高鞋墊"放進一般鞋子裡面,殊不知這樣的鞋墊會影響<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: red;">鞋內容量</span></span>、<span style="color: red;">腳背弧度</span>和<span style="background-color: white; color: red;">後踵高度</span><span style="background-color: white;">,穿起來一定不舒服</span>。增高鞋墊勉強可用在靴子或高幫運動鞋(譬如藍球鞋),但鞋墊後跟墊的愈高愈造成穿著不適,特別是腳後踵無法被包袱,鞋子變成了“拖鞋”,走起路來鞋子一直掉腳,還有可能造成腳踝受傷或容易造成足底筋膜炎。</div>
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增高鞋墊可分為<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">全墊式</span></span>和<span style="color: blue;">半墊式</span>,至於選擇哪一種?這要看鞋子,如果鞋子較寛鬆或者原來的鞋墊前掌部位就有厚度,那可以選擇全墊式增高鞋墊替換掉原來的鞋墊。一般高幫運動鞋就合適選擇全墊式增高鞋墊。</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"> <span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;"> 增高鞋墊-全墊式 </span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-size: small;"> 增高鞋墊- 半墊式 </span></td></tr>
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馬靴世家Botas的增高皮鞋</h3>
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增高鞋的英文為 Elevator shoes 直譯為"電梯鞋",顧名思義當腳穿進增高鞋內就像電梯一樣,霎那間將你帶上一個高度,這elevator shoes名字是不是很妙啊!</div>
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目前男士內增高皮鞋在台灣市場還是屬於小眾商品,以大陸和韓國進口為多。在早些時候,內增高鞋是根據特殊要求製造的或訂製的,如今內增高皮鞋越來越受歡迎,因為越來越多的服裝造型師或者明星,為求完美身材比例會考量此種功能的皮鞋,有鑑於此,我們花費了半年以上時間設計和開發這類鞋子,製造以符合台灣人的腳型和提昇增高鞋品質為目標,除了標準成品ready to wear外, 更提供了客製化和量腳訂做服務。</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-IjIzeuLTdmY0tW4HVeNNU4BkxlbBNGAoJFUPkBGmRXJA-GOcuzq9nsPKrV8EwxOIZxoeljWgXoJmQWHaP9T1j_1l-V0cMq5SAwG93hOkxBA1fnVhKRNMtM2bGdF_SCYxALJShFzujF4/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259B%259B%25E5%259E%258B+prototype.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="牛津雕花" border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="1000" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-IjIzeuLTdmY0tW4HVeNNU4BkxlbBNGAoJFUPkBGmRXJA-GOcuzq9nsPKrV8EwxOIZxoeljWgXoJmQWHaP9T1j_1l-V0cMq5SAwG93hOkxBA1fnVhKRNMtM2bGdF_SCYxALJShFzujF4/s400/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259B%259B%25E5%259E%258B+prototype.jpg" title="內增高皮鞋prototype" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">內增高皮鞋雛型(初樣) </span></span></td></tr>
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"馬靴世家"的增高皮鞋<b>特色</b>除了之前所說採用 1.)<b><u>後放增高鞋墊</u></b>作法保持外觀美之外, 2.) 在楦型設計和比例上也<b>避免因為增高而有短胖</b>的感覺,3.) 鞋墊更是要講究的,高跟鞋最怕穿著時滑動往前衝,我們採用<b>一體成型增高鞋墊</b>,讓想要增高的人穿上它能夠舒舒服服又逹到增高效果, 4.) 款式為簡單<b>牛津鞋</b>,是最具有紳士風格的鞋款,歷久不衰,永不褪流行,好搭配, 5.) 鞋子的大底是主要的一部份,我們採用經測試的<b>耐磨橡膠鞋底</b>,當然也可以訂製選擇皮革鞋底,6.) 在鞋面皮革方面,基本上,我們選用都是<b>頭層牛皮</b>,但訂製則有更多種皮革可選擇。</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/product_detail/616459" target="_blank"><img alt="黑色仿馬臂皮革" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg07FrCe9YLrGa8czZbKv3swfWvZi272SEUYAqWDKkLNEKzPbEeqH5L8nVhL8D8o3AFZrZZaksxom_Tqaq6hdaDQBeP1pXi6DTtwc3Wan7YkYOjM_pzpBVulhqrIfWbn4rNJyks-xVEk4k/s400/2527EK2+elevator+shoes+%25E7%2594%25B7%25E5%2585%25A7%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B+05.jpg" title="趾帽牛津增高皮鞋" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/product_detail/616459" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">馬靴世家趾帽牛津增高皮鞋</a></span></td></tr>
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什麼高度合適?</h3>
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最初構想是用EVA來做增高鞋墊,原因是EVA板可以切割並可符合我們的鞋楦,高度亦可調整,它不用開模具,方便又隨時可以切割調整厚薄和形狀,但缺點是它切割都是平面線條,無法做有凹凸腳床鞋墊而且材質硬。經過多人的試穿比較,聽取經驗, 最後決定選用模具<span style="color: red;">發泡EVA全墊式增高鞋墊</span>,U型後跟包腳,質量輕、具彈性、軟硬適中(類似一般運動鞋墊EVA發泡硬度約在35度左右),額外加上乳膠足弓墊,讓腳窩更有支撐,感覺鞋墊與腳更服貼。決定內增高鞋墊高度2.5cm是因為這個高度較不會造成腳前掌壓力,更重要的是這個增加2.5cm高度從鞋子外觀看也不是那麼明顯,旁人不會知道穿著者身高增加的秘密。</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjmagZgebsGYEtHOAmJGd-mjV6h_aWeJQH8jEjlT8KeCLLHRsYK1pH8-1Hu5f0IcQ8oNz5OxwuN9xSySbNCAPm49bFl_9YMEolPQ_e2zAVh2aj5En1RiIFoVb9X93FwRHgS52e1UDXze8/s1600/elevator+shoes+insole+%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25A2%258A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="288" data-original-width="500" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjmagZgebsGYEtHOAmJGd-mjV6h_aWeJQH8jEjlT8KeCLLHRsYK1pH8-1Hu5f0IcQ8oNz5OxwuN9xSySbNCAPm49bFl_9YMEolPQ_e2zAVh2aj5En1RiIFoVb9X93FwRHgS52e1UDXze8/s640/elevator+shoes+insole+%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25A2%258A.jpg" title="馬靴世家內增高鞋墊解析" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">馬靴世家增高皮鞋鞋墊解析</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #0b5394;">馬靴世家男士增高皮鞋</span>鞋跟高度3cm加上EVA增高鞋墊2.5cm高,總共<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">增高5.5公分</span></span>(如下圖增高皮鞋結構所示),這個高度還是屬於低跟,是理想的跟高,男生皮鞋本就是密鞋包袱著腳踝又是粗鞋跟,自然穿著的穩定性會比女生跟鞋來的好,對男性來說也不較影響足部的負擔和穿著行走的不舒適。</div>
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有的男性希望增高鞋可以做的再高些,但也不能無限度的高,穿太高長時間會容易造成姆指外翻或跖骨紅腫,愛漂亮外當然還是要顧慮到自己的足部健康。</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">隱形增高皮鞋結構</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/menshoes/category/15" target="_blank"><img alt="試穿實景" border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuhzeTU0x1u3RPA41HGeR_BOr0kc3S3DY_jRdiHn53mNENBZflvAva76CiKziTSozASuGn-fSh6eAw3CH2O_uTMNpH9flyzrYRN2joki49gTo0Sm9SPtANaiFwHinJTzTlEz1F2roPE6I/s640/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E5%25A2%259E%25E9%25AB%2598%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25A9%25A6%25E7%25A9%25BF.jpg" title="馬靴世家增高鞋" width="558" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: white; font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/menshoes/category/15" target="_blank">馬靴世家增高皮鞋試穿實景</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">現在,內增高鞋有各種顏色,款式,價格也趨於平價。有了內增高這種鞋子的幫助下,任何身材個小的人都可以將身高增加到5cm-10cm (含鞋跟高度),甚至更高,因此在社交聚會,商務會議或任何此類正式場合與人們進行互動時會給予穿著者更多的信心。其實,增高皮鞋也非常合適當新郎的婚鞋,<span style="color: #0b5394;">馬靴世家</span>更提供</span><i style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">白色增</span></i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><i><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">高婚鞋</span></i>,它為新郎打照完美身材比例,讓新娘更有小鳥依人的感覺,拍婚紗照片更加唯美。別再猶豫快來試試。</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/product_detail/616457" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">馬靴世家白色增高婚鞋</a></span></td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區承德路七段344巷 9號 請預約25.1178599 121.50437940000006-3.3412831000000018 80.195785400000062 53.5770029 162.81297340000006tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-31991638656824703422018-07-18T15:30:00.000+08:002018-07-21T14:30:48.462+08:00尖頭鞋訂製記事 d'Orsay pointed toe pumps<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFFBIPLjBIX29lL1CmAW7EN4XnPMb0R1CTyx4LVIcNAmrhV0JD5bZgyGCCuU011KO0yjpO12gOtHlfGRnteyZOpjmTt-v3iXlO3BJEEWZe2O0a_pCUroIhNRLV1JBnR1Zfcg2WtNg7Zo/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="921" data-original-width="1000" height="588" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFFBIPLjBIX29lL1CmAW7EN4XnPMb0R1CTyx4LVIcNAmrhV0JD5bZgyGCCuU011KO0yjpO12gOtHlfGRnteyZOpjmTt-v3iXlO3BJEEWZe2O0a_pCUroIhNRLV1JBnR1Zfcg2WtNg7Zo/s640/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444; color: white; font-size: small;"> 奧賽尖頭鞋 </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #999999; font-size: large;">現代、簡約的奧塞d'Orsay尖頭鞋的訂製記事</span></h2>
印象中三、四年前相當流行d' Orsay (奧賽)鞋款,特別是平底 flats。鞋的內側或兩側簍空,露出足弓,是此款鞋主要特徵。d'Orsay做淺口鞋樣式,露出腳背曲線,使腿部有修長效果,頗討女姓喜歡,這是一款非常性感的鞋子,它可以是平底的、高跟的、小圓頭的或尖頭的,這純粹依個人喜好和穿著習慣來選擇。<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444;"><span style="color: white;"> 奧塞鞋的特徵 </span></span></td></tr>
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<h3>
3月29日 女王駕到</h3>
每位客戶的來到,都希望被當作獨一無二的個體來對待,而我們以真誠實在的態度來服務每位貴客。V君來到馬靴世家工作室帶著她要想訂製的淑女鞋,此雙鞋V君非常非常的喜愛,據她說是多年前在百貨公司買的,後來她再去找已經找不到了,所以只能來訂做仿製一雙。不過,我都會與客戶說明清楚和溝通,不可能做到100%像或一模一樣,而且我們不偽造品牌,再來,因為材料的來源取得和師傅們的工藝都會影響其相似度。幸運地,都能與客戶達成共識。<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxU-CyfMKrA_HHYXbpVnm3S20dzzSqSIuXGy07V_yqOxmkUEwaRTPcJxn5X-3MoPgeLhgF9gOD8YmFdRC5vB5qXNcREtVryXWWdV-uILh9TwYx32BBqMhmKPRp8qG6UzbODssgQkwXN9c/s1600/P_20180509_093321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxU-CyfMKrA_HHYXbpVnm3S20dzzSqSIuXGy07V_yqOxmkUEwaRTPcJxn5X-3MoPgeLhgF9gOD8YmFdRC5vB5qXNcREtVryXWWdV-uILh9TwYx32BBqMhmKPRp8qG6UzbODssgQkwXN9c/s400/P_20180509_093321.jpg" title="奧塞淑女鞋" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> V君提供鞋樣 </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiogqtOwK-OkW7wlw0A-FaBr_vqlS_29kqyn6gNgR7DtB4VC5PgNqP5968g2BzeS2xEMxUA2FcYmiUWjE344RHpXTriYp0chJXEp0gDthJ0OgNHFQ_zeAiOBNcFMrVdRq_IroAZhN9bhTc/s1600/P_20180410_142212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="800" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiogqtOwK-OkW7wlw0A-FaBr_vqlS_29kqyn6gNgR7DtB4VC5PgNqP5968g2BzeS2xEMxUA2FcYmiUWjE344RHpXTriYp0chJXEp0gDthJ0OgNHFQ_zeAiOBNcFMrVdRq_IroAZhN9bhTc/s400/P_20180410_142212.jpg" title="腳型尺寸" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> V君量腳記錄 </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
量腳後,與V君聊過,發現開服飾店的她,對鞋子有她自己的見解,很在意鞋子外觀一定要"瘦長"和1"鞋跟的高度,本因她有輕微的姆指外翻,我們會以穿著舒適為優先考量,大都會在鞋楦跖趾圍地方加以改善,但這樣難免會影響鞋頭的外觀,還好V君選擇羊絨皮料,這柔軟的皮質剛巧可以蓋過姆指外翻造成穿著疼痛的問題,於是這樣就解決鞋子變寛的擔憂。<br />
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<h3>
4月2日 跟來跟去</h3>
塑膠鞋跟的製成主要是靠模具成型,所以鞋跟的造型和高度都是固定,只能從多家鞋跟廠裡挑選自己最能接受的。V君指定鞋跟一定要1" (2.5cm)高,鞋跟外型曲線要類似她原本的那雙鞋子,找了幾家鞋跟廠,不是造型類似但高度夠,要不然就是高度OK但造型不OK,唉!實在兩難。最後詢問V君的取捨"以高度為優先考量",結果她選用了下面照片這個鞋跟。還有個重點,鞋跟須先確定才能進行下一步 --> 鞋楦。<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZxXv1ZGipqXFuhH_eTDu1QbwBqgBWE0X9lBkl3g4bBStE6oAgQYk7eFkYemhxDELhPGjAK_uqh9eFHN5rNhmnm_fAaOdOo9QeL0LUDuDcChgU2uckI5_jvpBz9On2CuEGWsnot45qxw/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F-%25E4%25BD%258E%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZxXv1ZGipqXFuhH_eTDu1QbwBqgBWE0X9lBkl3g4bBStE6oAgQYk7eFkYemhxDELhPGjAK_uqh9eFHN5rNhmnm_fAaOdOo9QeL0LUDuDcChgU2uckI5_jvpBz9On2CuEGWsnot45qxw/s400/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F-%25E4%25BD%258E%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" title="1"高杯型鞋跟" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> 1"高杯型鞋跟 </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
4月13日 不容小覷</h3>
楦頭代表腳的骨骼結構簡化的模子,鞋子的合身程度和造型都取決於鞋楦的設計、形狀和體積。在提供鞋子和鞋跟給楦頭廠並描述我們需要重點後,幾天後便拿到一隻磨好右腳鞋楦,該隻楦我們稱為母楦。一般有鞋樣的話,師傅會灌石膏或蠟來取得鞋頭形狀,但不是百分百一樣,因為鞋子穿過多多少少會變形,然後,比照取得的蠟模磨相似楦頭頭形,這樣會比單單看鞋子琢磨更明確清楚。<br />
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<b><span style="color: #073763;">問題來了…</span></b> <br />
為什麼是右腳?而不是左腳?其實,這只是師傅的習慣。<br />
又為什麼是一隻?而不是一雙?這是我們的習慣,為求做的更好更符合客戶要求。目的是先打樣一隻來與原樣比較外觀和讓客戶試穿其合適度。至少,有問題時,還可以修改補救,雖然耗力耗時,有些麻煩,但要做就要做對做好,馬虎不得,這是我們處事的原則。<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZP_k8GWGJBXwwSwu9T8Yx0Hqezqt4-t1Gxq7Jvv7N_eLJ2aqkTUSPc01DGA1tzQa_epVjlgiYMAgKpnEakRc8K8rufqgmWFukHZIKmd1lxns_X0WYKwQDP4PxSW7Fysnjmm_0pdKzbqI/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%2581%258E%25E7%25A8%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="1000" height="419" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZP_k8GWGJBXwwSwu9T8Yx0Hqezqt4-t1Gxq7Jvv7N_eLJ2aqkTUSPc01DGA1tzQa_epVjlgiYMAgKpnEakRc8K8rufqgmWFukHZIKmd1lxns_X0WYKwQDP4PxSW7Fysnjmm_0pdKzbqI/s640/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%2581%258E%25E7%25A8%258B.jpg" title="灌蠟取得楦頭頭型" width="640" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjYD4nAS7QtLXvtjempgMzovO7LtK63zVGOtoigKSZXpcridWKauZwhdD9P1GpKJXmNSP04msngHHAEfDB10IBszZuPzgpSZ1Y14NAaSRlUhYaJ78PlfkCpdLUAFKuIxknCJB0-VE1m2w/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%2581%258E%25E7%25A8%258B-%25E9%259E%258B%25E6%25A5%25A6%25E9%2596%258B%25E7%2599%25BC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjYD4nAS7QtLXvtjempgMzovO7LtK63zVGOtoigKSZXpcridWKauZwhdD9P1GpKJXmNSP04msngHHAEfDB10IBszZuPzgpSZ1Y14NAaSRlUhYaJ78PlfkCpdLUAFKuIxknCJB0-VE1m2w/s640/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%2581%258E%25E7%25A8%258B-%25E9%259E%258B%25E6%25A5%25A6%25E9%2596%258B%25E7%2599%25BC.jpg" title="母楦" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> 依據蠟凝結後,磨出來的楦型。 </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
4月18日 美的詮釋</h3>
鞋面開版本身就是一門藝術,就像衣服打版,它會影響鞋子的外觀、線條曲線的美感,以及鞋面製作的容易程度。日子過得很快!走到這裡,已經半個多月了。不是我怠慢拖延!開發製作過程就是這樣得按部就班,step by step,當然,這中間又碰到清明節連假難免進度受點影響(蛤! 這是藉口嗎!)。<br />
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言歸正轉。對的鞋楦和美的楦型才能開出好的鞋面板,相對地,鞋子才能呈現時尚、年輕,我們常說"簡單其實不簡單",奧賽d'Orsay這樣的款式看似簡單,但鞋臉開的位置就很重要,所幸我們有舊的鞋子可以參考,只要鞋楦的尺寸比例和肥度没問題,開出來的鞋面板應差距不大,這對鞋面板師傅來說就容易些了,日後再修修改改的機會便不大,除非楦頭有大動作的修改。<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN5t1P94djkzUuwBd489JXYY3V5xgi9zNSsdtZvxJO3difyJ-dXbT1B7X07OSlIYBY0dx2wUc1O1hyphenhyphen1wPYFBJbuTqVcs3-EXiMuiYCZfg2YT4f89G15Rfhp1LKin9g1ea0PGasOVjPbGE/s1600/d%2527orsay%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2%25E6%259D%25BF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN5t1P94djkzUuwBd489JXYY3V5xgi9zNSsdtZvxJO3difyJ-dXbT1B7X07OSlIYBY0dx2wUc1O1hyphenhyphen1wPYFBJbuTqVcs3-EXiMuiYCZfg2YT4f89G15Rfhp1LKin9g1ea0PGasOVjPbGE/s640/d%2527orsay%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2%25E6%259D%25BF.jpg" title="奧塞d'Orsay鞋面板" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> 奧塞d'Orsay鞋面板 </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
4月24日 初露頭角</h3>
終於到了面對成果的時刻了,開發鞋子是很有挑戰性的工作,做得好不好東西會說話。第一隻初板樣品完成了 ! 比較後,已是八九不離十,發現有些小地方需修改,鞋面部份前鞋口弧度在修寬和方一點,會顯得較年輕,礙於鞋跟的關係總是感覺後踵不是那麼秀氣,但這無法改變的現況只能屈就了。至於穿著時,V君感覺後踵不是很包腳,鞋頭尖度還要再尖長一些,這些問題需從鞋楦著手了。<br />
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<b><span style="color: #990000;">回憶</span></b>~~試穿的場景,很有趣!初樣完成二個星期後,因V君一直無法前來工作室試穿,於是我們約在捷運民權西路站裡,兩個人只專心在試鞋和討論鞋,一向內向低調的我,似乎忘了來來往往的行人的眼光,一心一意只想著怎麼做還可以更完美,可見專注的力量,只在意自己眼前的任務,心無旁鶩 ,讓人忘卻自己的面子。<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Av0CAdj6hoAho6bQU5m3VIlVni2FWVFmaRq4p7Qv0afE1qT7GauElqDsS2PPsaVHd2kCrbKJ2KdN3xHx1r34CeK7ZoZjGM995BtSmbatZpwr4V6x2olqJbzChVM9X9JcjeBip1HEc_Q/s1600/%25E5%25AE%25A2%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E5%258C%2596%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="1000" height="579" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Av0CAdj6hoAho6bQU5m3VIlVni2FWVFmaRq4p7Qv0afE1qT7GauElqDsS2PPsaVHd2kCrbKJ2KdN3xHx1r34CeK7ZoZjGM995BtSmbatZpwr4V6x2olqJbzChVM9X9JcjeBip1HEc_Q/s640/%25E5%25AE%25A2%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E5%258C%2596%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" title="客製化訂製尖頭淑女鞋-初樣prototype" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666; color: white;"> 客製化訂製尖頭淑女鞋-初樣prototype </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCT-cK7rbliZPTibtsP0suIZjaZNdHYZwWqQdUD5olU889ggPcBZ4ptHkjdvzu8QRKmNyhIvw4PzMufHFDk73tf-pY8_1ad2tzJ1TdPyaot5RLmdCwQD2_wx4HlFF4DeTgxFLiIcRIEvk/s1600/%25E5%25A5%25A7%25E5%25A1%259E%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCT-cK7rbliZPTibtsP0suIZjaZNdHYZwWqQdUD5olU889ggPcBZ4ptHkjdvzu8QRKmNyhIvw4PzMufHFDk73tf-pY8_1ad2tzJ1TdPyaot5RLmdCwQD2_wx4HlFF4DeTgxFLiIcRIEvk/s640/%25E5%25A5%25A7%25E5%25A1%259E%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD.jpg" title="尖頭淑女鞋-試穿" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> 初樣試穿比較(俯視圖) </span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1E319jtOFefnbQovwefcf5Gqz2dckbd4Y9HdPVFjTruhr1eV492Vs5fwz3aSYNor5hZO_0ixRnyO6uFCi0R790LhVCAUuO4ktw0kPJCOunsns81ZenkA_gLdoyYg26FoDyWSDHrJ3AZ0/s1600/%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B-%25E8%25A8%2582%25E5%2581%259A%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="1000" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1E319jtOFefnbQovwefcf5Gqz2dckbd4Y9HdPVFjTruhr1eV492Vs5fwz3aSYNor5hZO_0ixRnyO6uFCi0R790LhVCAUuO4ktw0kPJCOunsns81ZenkA_gLdoyYg26FoDyWSDHrJ3AZ0/s640/%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B-%25E8%25A8%2582%25E5%2581%259A%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" title="訂製尖頭淑女鞋-初樣試穿" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> 初樣試穿比較(側視圖) </span></span></td></tr>
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<h3>
5月9日 不厭其煩</h3>
做鞋子最不能怕"<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: large;">煩</span>",覺得不對,就是要有勇氣面對它,就像房子抓漏水要找出問題點,穿著的問題(客觀問題)有可能是楦頭、可能是材料、可能是鞋面板、可能是製作過程,其判斷大都憑藉著經驗。至於有點說不出來的怪怪感覺,這就屬於個人的審美觀(主觀問題)。根據V君試穿時反應 1.) 後跟不伏貼快掉腳感覺,2.) 鞋頭尖度要再尖一點,所以我們要先從楦頭著手,這過桯幾乎等於再來一次。<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoqBG2DYGihjDYUFNNmkgkbq7C88zRpsFU2dAG4sKyZU2r9xn1Fm2wlYhU0Mhj5c0iexRvUhmR8quor5yuOnlBQPPESN4Nh50tS8jikiS9j0omb19jgr0w1XKCJSb4jwS3JYqiNOGSBrE/s1600/%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B%2526%25E5%258F%2596%25E5%259E%258B%25E5%2599%25A8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="784" data-original-width="1000" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoqBG2DYGihjDYUFNNmkgkbq7C88zRpsFU2dAG4sKyZU2r9xn1Fm2wlYhU0Mhj5c0iexRvUhmR8quor5yuOnlBQPPESN4Nh50tS8jikiS9j0omb19jgr0w1XKCJSb4jwS3JYqiNOGSBrE/s400/%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B%2526%25E5%258F%2596%25E5%259E%258B%25E5%2599%25A8.jpg" title="鞋楦修改" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;"> 左圖:用取型器核對鞋頭弧度: 右圖: 檢視著地點 </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_xyq7Wc1rb-U1UDHpbP7C4aj-iFAfZWGi4yp34Op5eDSIDxF7mwc-62j2HxLIvxo5-bpnZTv-PRVy0RqQxKpfcU3qYuIPlTwl99biZi7WHk5vwddQe5f7j4oWPeqdSUid6Lj80ghE58/s1600/%25E4%25BD%258E%25E8%25B7%259F%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="1000" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_xyq7Wc1rb-U1UDHpbP7C4aj-iFAfZWGi4yp34Op5eDSIDxF7mwc-62j2HxLIvxo5-bpnZTv-PRVy0RqQxKpfcU3qYuIPlTwl99biZi7WHk5vwddQe5f7j4oWPeqdSUid6Lj80ghE58/s400/%25E4%25BD%258E%25E8%25B7%259F%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" title="卡尺量深度-楦頭修改" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <span style="background-color: #444444;"><span style="color: white;"> 楦頭修改前量其深度 </span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqL2WX1DPOc5e_cqMCyKK1ZY73aMjXDaNZXJ5TYfkTxN_ot_l0KIRLXP-ctywp9ucAi_kWWHEroJ2O9blij9k4CcRFQgA15Lb_CDpLCAX05l3eLPm2AJxc4I2VzkCNPmeIVTEZ2ERFlU8/s1600/%25E7%25A3%25A8%25E9%259E%258B%25E6%25A5%25A6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="1000" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqL2WX1DPOc5e_cqMCyKK1ZY73aMjXDaNZXJ5TYfkTxN_ot_l0KIRLXP-ctywp9ucAi_kWWHEroJ2O9blij9k4CcRFQgA15Lb_CDpLCAX05l3eLPm2AJxc4I2VzkCNPmeIVTEZ2ERFlU8/s640/%25E7%25A3%25A8%25E9%259E%258B%25E6%25A5%25A6.jpg" title="磨鞋楦" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444;"><span style="color: white;"> 因客戶要求鞋頭要再修長些,現將楦頭磨尖補長 </span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCtt_whav7nkMpydQhcfAo4H56gloX2L8UlyY9YqV8SDZgo-XuiiN09NVvqc4vH4V1dNpsFDe9Uf4t99UekJFeunuUhX7JUPfNRheFoIEyxWqQ3F7pAzPWun0F4gKiCfNvzon6DaVacUU/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E5%25AE%25A2%25E6%2588%25B6%25E5%25B0%2588%25E5%25B1%25AC%25E9%259E%258B%25E6%25A5%25A6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="1000" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCtt_whav7nkMpydQhcfAo4H56gloX2L8UlyY9YqV8SDZgo-XuiiN09NVvqc4vH4V1dNpsFDe9Uf4t99UekJFeunuUhX7JUPfNRheFoIEyxWqQ3F7pAzPWun0F4gKiCfNvzon6DaVacUU/s400/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E5%25AE%25A2%25E6%2588%25B6%25E5%25B0%2588%25E5%25B1%25AC%25E9%259E%258B%25E6%25A5%25A6.jpg" title="客戶專屬鞋楦" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <span style="background-color: #666666; color: white;"> 此雙鞋楦為客戶專屬鞋楦 </span></td></tr>
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楦頭問題修改後,大致上問題都處理好了,就可以用母楦複製一雙新鞋楦,<span style="text-align: center;">此雙鞋楦是依據客戶要求鞋形款式和腳型尺寸製做的,為客戶<i><span style="color: blue;">專屬鞋楦</span></i>,日後,客戶要在訂製類似或差異不大的款式就無需再做鞋楦</span>。<br />
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<h3>
5月10日 面面到位</h3>
鞋子要做到精緻,每個小細節都不容忽視,最怕自己先妥協、放水。楦頭修改後,再來就換鞋面板了,想到整個過程這裡修修補補那裡修修改改如此麻煩又瑣碎,還有可能被師傅們嫌棄說龜毛,但鞋子如果要做好做對,就一定要"有所為有所不為"。修改面板的主要原因是前鞋臉的弧度,再者鞋楦的長度有動過這也是修改鞋面板的重點。<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiozCk7VFH1vMYhH3E0G_kKnkxQTlCNMmHiWFIX7xI79UeLL2RzWiyEZW6dTg9QbxvQvP9uPsHUhIcTYDdna-jkMPdAaQO_4WASlV-fSW12L7O7uMBsVeijs00foA9FXjnoUGIuQtGhJI/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2%25E6%259D%25BF1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="1000" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiozCk7VFH1vMYhH3E0G_kKnkxQTlCNMmHiWFIX7xI79UeLL2RzWiyEZW6dTg9QbxvQvP9uPsHUhIcTYDdna-jkMPdAaQO_4WASlV-fSW12L7O7uMBsVeijs00foA9FXjnoUGIuQtGhJI/s400/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2%25E6%259D%25BF1.jpg" title=" 奧塞尖頭鞋後套裡 " width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444; color: white;"> 奧塞尖頭鞋後套裡弧度修改 </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrmKjTdQgXsWwWSLbGnLs7rC-uPxWT4KeS9lXxhkz0FM32EGJDTnGaAmK7eUVVVtMXqX9c3P02A0S9xogqdoOVuSJqumbKGRB5mzF-lB_ZK3TiCjVJmvKRpY6y53hl_6bpzDfxvVwEFU/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2%25E6%259D%25BF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="1000" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrmKjTdQgXsWwWSLbGnLs7rC-uPxWT4KeS9lXxhkz0FM32EGJDTnGaAmK7eUVVVtMXqX9c3P02A0S9xogqdoOVuSJqumbKGRB5mzF-lB_ZK3TiCjVJmvKRpY6y53hl_6bpzDfxvVwEFU/s400/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2%25E6%259D%25BF.jpg" title="奧塞d'Orsay尖頭鞋面板" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #444444;"><span style="color: white;"> 奧塞d'Orsay尖頭鞋鞋口修改 </span></span></td></tr>
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<h3>
5月24日 專屬於你</h3>
每個師傅都有自己的"手路",做出來的作品感覺都會有些許差異,但主體架構樣子都相同。製鞋除了鞋楦與面板工作外,鞋子還有其它材料"皮料、中底、大底、鞋跟"和工序"面工、底工、整理"要準備和進行,等待材料備齊後,接下來就是將鞋面與鞋底組合的技術工藝,最後一道就是整理和包裝,就這樣一雙客戶專屬的訂製鞋完成可以交貨了。<br />
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客戶訂製的目的是複製一雙她喜愛的鞋子。<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 11pt;">黑色都會給人權威、高雅、低調,而這款羊絨皮革製成的鞋子,看起來非常優雅和前衛。</span>V君的腳型算是標準的,有著修長腿型的她,此款鞋更為相互襯托,而且1"的跟高穿著更為舒適,難怪V君特別鍾於此鞋,我們希望V君穿的開心滿意。<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBr658B21JE3hhJsCBLjiP7w3kAaez1JOd-WzUBf4PYdQIhUl3J8_hVCVJ8DQ1kzGirKITC4PygNMVEG0SdT1eDMLY1iuhjiD80tmjzcHSCn5S7kkehiCrQSaMp9lg7yEpdH9yekfUJ_4/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E5%25A5%25A7%25E5%25A1%259E%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E4%25BD%258E%25E8%25B7%259F+d%2527Orsay+pointed+toe+pumps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1028" data-original-width="1500" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBr658B21JE3hhJsCBLjiP7w3kAaez1JOd-WzUBf4PYdQIhUl3J8_hVCVJ8DQ1kzGirKITC4PygNMVEG0SdT1eDMLY1iuhjiD80tmjzcHSCn5S7kkehiCrQSaMp9lg7yEpdH9yekfUJ_4/s640/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E5%25A5%25A7%25E5%25A1%259E%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E4%25BD%258E%25E8%25B7%259F+d%2527Orsay+pointed+toe+pumps.jpg" title="馬靴世家客製化訂製bespoke" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> 客製化訂製鞋- 奧塞尖頭淑女鞋 d'Orsay pointed toe pumps </span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXOx7fevB9E_vAFXpXNEOEP_to6n2CIAhKyAmWKJthZX2b0owV3CedkdSarPkG67xOvLNRA02y76UV4CugksnQlUL503F-nQZoqhIXIiDb0uOu9KSE7hw3y6SnBynRu7V5sLLlnLaPXxw/s1600/Botas+shoes+bespoke+%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E4%25BD%258E%25E8%25B7%259F%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="961" data-original-width="1500" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXOx7fevB9E_vAFXpXNEOEP_to6n2CIAhKyAmWKJthZX2b0owV3CedkdSarPkG67xOvLNRA02y76UV4CugksnQlUL503F-nQZoqhIXIiDb0uOu9KSE7hw3y6SnBynRu7V5sLLlnLaPXxw/s640/Botas+shoes+bespoke+%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B-%25E5%25B0%2596%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E4%25BD%258E%25E8%25B7%259F%25E6%25B7%2591%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" title="客訂低跟尖頭淑女鞋" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="color: white;"> V君穿著訂製尖頭鞋實景照片 </span></span> </td></tr>
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<h3>
後記</h3>
<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 11pt;">奧賽尖頭鞋的內側或兩側簍空,所以容易產生不跟腳(掉腳)的問題,因此我們在製作過程</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 11pt;">減小尺寸以獲得更伏貼,</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 11pt;">許多鞋廠會將d'Orsay的鞋頭縮緊一些,但</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 11pt;">這可能導致腳疼痛的起水泡,所以當您選擇該款鞋時皮料的選擇也需要考量,除了美觀外也要舒適。</span><br />
<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 11pt;"><br />
</span> 經過大約二個月製作期,可能會覺得等待期有些漫長,但對我們來說時間飛逝,每個工作步驟都不容遲疑,以我們能力儘可能做到最好讓客戶滿意。對於此雙訂做鞋我自己還滿喜愛的,特別它的楦型,美中不足就是鞋跟造型。欣賞著客戶穿著它的照片,心裡還是有些成就感。Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區承德路七段344巷 9號 請預約25.1178599 121.50437940000006-3.3395556000000006 80.195785400000062 53.575275399999995 162.81297340000006tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-3051479538283899302017-10-02T11:25:00.001+08:002018-12-07T10:43:39.169+08:00長筒馬靴的選擇與量測 boots fit guide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_nr4M3ymFmmDzYU3vrzJAhctpFZ2dYhOFp-Vf5OxONQt3knvmL5V-NijjzqDtNfOsoKEyqxdcoWql7xBbf2CfGyopIG72j3tP6Z2FTFTQiopDF8ktv1u13yeUes2UhVp4AObLkarqe2g/s1600/women+and+men+boots+%25E7%2594%25B7%25E9%259D%25B4%2526%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259D%25B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="1200" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_nr4M3ymFmmDzYU3vrzJAhctpFZ2dYhOFp-Vf5OxONQt3knvmL5V-NijjzqDtNfOsoKEyqxdcoWql7xBbf2CfGyopIG72j3tP6Z2FTFTQiopDF8ktv1u13yeUes2UhVp4AObLkarqe2g/s640/women+and+men+boots+%25E7%2594%25B7%25E9%259D%25B4%2526%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259D%25B4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h3>
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">馬靴世家女靴VS.男靴</span></span></h3>
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前一陣子,在YouTube看了亨利四世:為愛宣戰(Henry of Navarre / Henri IV)的電影,發現亨利四世和他的夥伴們都穿長靴,真是帥氣十足!也不知道什麼時候男人漸漸不穿長筒馬靴,或許當時是騎馬與戰鬥的需要,反而,在十九世紀,慢慢地馬靴轉為女性所喜愛。最近發現因為台灣重型機車的開放與興起,靴子成為了可選擇裝備之一,回想西洋電影裡哈雷重機騎士穿著靴子的雅痞隨興畫面,酷斃了!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">亨利四世:為愛宣戰裡很多場景都可見到男士穿著長靴</span></span></td></tr>
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有些年輕女孩為了讓自己雙腳顯瘦,會選擇緊一點的靴筒,勉強自己雙腿塞進去,腿部長期受到擠壓會造成血循環不良,連帶地,影響末梢神經和足部的建康。我還曾經在電視上看見女明星展示自己國外採購回來的鞋子,明明太小,只因為喜歡而不管是否合不合腳,歐美的腳型和腿的比例和我們東方人是有差別的,一定要選購一雙合適自己尺寸的鞋子,注重美觀的同時還是要以舒適為前提,善待和保護自己的腳才能行萬里路。<br />
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任何人沒有兩隻腳相似的,顯然地,只有自己知道自己穿著鞋子的感覺,舒適感是非常主觀,有些人喜歡寬鬆,有些人喜歡緊貼,決定權還是在於個人。選擇長筒靴建議要選購具<span style="color: red;">透氣性的材料</span>,想想腳和腿長期包裹在靴筒裡,過多地行走汗氣無法消散,悶久了對皮膚總是不好。<br />
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<h3>
如何選購現成的(ready to wear)馬靴?</h3>
想馬上擁有一雙馬靴,不想久等或擔心訂製價位高(其實,不一定喔!),可以選擇市面上現成的馬靴。這裡有幾點或許能幫助您找到適合您的馬靴。<br />
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<ol>
<li>是否之前穿過該品牌的鞋子?如果之前穿著的經驗OK,靴子的尺碼就選擇相同的尺碼,都相差不大。</li>
<li>如何找到自己的尺碼?可以參考您之前買過的別家品牌的靴子或鞋子,請多查看幾雙您鞋櫃裡最近常穿的不同品牌的鞋子尺碼(運動鞋尺碼排除),如果尺碼都是一樣,那大概就是你的穿著尺碼。如果可以,建議自己量一下腳長,對照賣家提供的尺碼對照表。</li>
<li>建議在下午試穿靴子,經過一整天的活動或運動,這時腳是比較腫脹。</li>
<li>要試穿。如果是網購,收到的靴子,首先嘗試在地毯或地板行走感覺看看是否有不舒適感,但請小心不要磨傷鞋底和弄皺鞋面。</li>
<li>記得購買時,考量是否打算穿厚襪或褲子塞在靴筒裡?如果是,靴筒圍要鬆一點。</li>
<li>新穿的靴子,鞋底和鞋面皮革會比較僵硬,當穿著靴子一陣子,應該這感覺會消失。</li>
<li>即使尺碼合適但靴筒太緊甚至拉錬卡在小腿拉不上來,此時還是要以小腿穿得下為準,千萬別想等減肥後就可以穿得下。<u><b>記住:選擇長靴時合適小腿周長比符合腳長重要。</b></u></li>
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<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">腳長合腳但腿圍右腳穿不下,這時要換大一點尺碼穿</span></span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV93JceXZW_oJGkMQNpfcSXTvE8lPjKmUeiXqYfCY9nyHZpBs7SDal1SDtwDfWEieHoFlNhB-zOXNawJ7dt2xOjUDyYGnOm0TFh8a9MJSQ_687cwu3R5ol2CDztPo8v_X6yeEYnpUAOHM/s1600/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E7%259A%2584%25E8%2585%25BF%25E5%259C%258D%25E5%2592%258C%25E8%2585%25B3%25E9%2595%25B7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="390" data-original-width="269" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV93JceXZW_oJGkMQNpfcSXTvE8lPjKmUeiXqYfCY9nyHZpBs7SDal1SDtwDfWEieHoFlNhB-zOXNawJ7dt2xOjUDyYGnOm0TFh8a9MJSQ_687cwu3R5ol2CDztPo8v_X6yeEYnpUAOHM/s320/%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E7%259A%2584%25E8%2585%25BF%25E5%259C%258D%25E5%2592%258C%25E8%2585%25B3%25E9%2595%25B7.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">現成的長筒馬靴是否合穿?主要考量腿圍和腳長</span></td></tr>
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<h3>
如何自己量腳</h3>
長筒馬靴最常碰到小腿太粗(蘿蔔腿)穿不下,隨著年齡增長,我們的小腿圍會越來越粗,原因是我們的下半部肌肉鬆弛,使小腿變大。通常,50歲以上的人的小腿的周長可能比35歲時擴大約2cm或更大,即使有健身鍛煉效果還是有限,所以不要沮喪覺得自己腿變粗,這是不可抗拒的地心引力的影響。假設您的小腿與您想要的靴子的標準不符,那麼,則需要定製符合自己尺寸的馬靴。<br />
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<li>首先,確定你雙腳的正確尺寸大小。注意,我們的腳隨著時間是會有所改變,建議每一次訂做時千萬別嫌麻煩,請乖乖再量一次腳。如果一隻腳比另一隻腳稍長或更寬,這是正常現象,差距不大時會應以較大的數據為準,但兩腳相差大太,別擔心,訂製鞋的好處就是可以做大小腳,不用多花一雙鞋子的錢買"一雙大和一雙小",而浪費另外兩隻穿不到的鞋子。</li>
<li>檢查你的腿和腳,看看是否有任何不尋常的腫塊,受傷後未癒合的區域,或紅腫。如果腳或腿上有不尋常狀況,一定要看醫生,才不會導致不必要的擠壓傷害或影響血液循環,造成二次傷害。</li>
<li>量腳工具,請準備一個捲尺、A4紙和筆。最好可以找朋友或家人幫忙量(或者到商家量腳),如果真的找不到人幫忙,還是可以自己量。記得量測時,捲尺不要繞得太緊也不要太鬆,不用使力貼著腿量,鬆緊度大概就是尺可以稍微在腿上左右轉動。<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcUnsDIVRTXMCsRC2NKgk4ujQNaStHh3yLAu5zidGZqsF1sI11gIF3N2Jo_cS8pIv7MfhMy5jiZQ5NKuvGaaagxazrppYux-ZwomIhypu3o7AWUh-o660UL9YSUb9Yzp0SruB3U5Uzkbo/s1600/%25E9%2587%258F%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%25B7%25A5%25E5%2585%25B7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="813" data-original-width="1200" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcUnsDIVRTXMCsRC2NKgk4ujQNaStHh3yLAu5zidGZqsF1sI11gIF3N2Jo_cS8pIv7MfhMy5jiZQ5NKuvGaaagxazrppYux-ZwomIhypu3o7AWUh-o660UL9YSUb9Yzp0SruB3U5Uzkbo/s400/%25E9%2587%258F%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%25B7%25A5%25E5%2585%25B7.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">自己量腳應準備工具</span></td></tr>
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<li>如果你喜歡穿長靴時將長褲或牛仔褲塞在靴筒內,那量腳時記得要穿牛仔褲量腳。</li>
<li>量腳時,到底是要站著?還是坐著?答案是都可以,但如果筒高要加長,量筒高時要坐著或跪著量,靴子不可高於膝蓋背部,避免穿著長筒馬靴坐下時大腿會碰到靴筒而引起不適當的擦傷或摩擦。<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrBFBC40VS8d7CtvuwwC3rRu8MBywec3shZOL25Eswg98XRHtvaTZLedjnvjKfyY4dX8fXsScASW77xTP_uyFFvNOtAvmyuoRq6mrgLM3mI0Upp7SJii959cJm7u-NoUeex_8P7E8WzZA/s1600/%25E8%25B7%25AA%25E5%25A7%25BF%25E9%2587%258F%25E8%2585%25B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="952" data-original-width="1200" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrBFBC40VS8d7CtvuwwC3rRu8MBywec3shZOL25Eswg98XRHtvaTZLedjnvjKfyY4dX8fXsScASW77xTP_uyFFvNOtAvmyuoRq6mrgLM3mI0Upp7SJii959cJm7u-NoUeex_8P7E8WzZA/s320/%25E8%25B7%25AA%25E5%25A7%25BF%25E9%2587%258F%25E8%2585%25B3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">自己量時採跪姿量腳會比較方便</span></td></tr>
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</li>
<li>當前面提到都準備好了,就可以開始量腳了(量腳方法請參考<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-dhT8cK7GQ&t=59s" target="_blank">影片</a>),請記得左右腳都要量,最好在拍下自己的腳型和腿型的照片提供給製造者。為求訂做的馬靴靴筒和尺碼符合自己腳型和腿型,提供的數據和資料愈齊全愈精準(需提供資料數據如圖示),做出來的馬靴自然就舒適好穿,或許您曾聽說從腳踝開始每隔5cm量一次,這大部份是針對馬術靴才會這麼做,因為馬術靴要求穿著很服貼和硬挺。</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVrFxnI4qc7IUSGrLP8PI780IEy0HBTdZi7CLACcv47piR2KlmVAWj7HA7pFtaMtNJF6g-wJHHD1QgV8qWlCL3WJ57pdX8WeKklR_o9HicOZ8AuEiy8-azvtAjYfBbdkY27BCd2zZ8-4s/s1600/%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E9%2587%258F%25E8%2585%25B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="504" data-original-width="702" height="457" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVrFxnI4qc7IUSGrLP8PI780IEy0HBTdZi7CLACcv47piR2KlmVAWj7HA7pFtaMtNJF6g-wJHHD1QgV8qWlCL3WJ57pdX8WeKklR_o9HicOZ8AuEiy8-azvtAjYfBbdkY27BCd2zZ8-4s/s640/%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E9%2587%258F%25E8%2585%25B3.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">長靴量腳位置</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">自己量靴筒高度量法</span></td></tr>
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看了這麼多步驟,是不是覺得訂製馬靴的量腳很複雜,而有些退卻?想要擁有一雙美美又舒適的靴子,這是無法避免的過程,而且訂製一雙質感好的馬靴,可以穿好幾年,這樣的付出絕對值得,如果擔心量不準,接受訂製馬靴的工廠或商家應有量腳的服務。總之,希望大家花錢買鞋子,要買對的鞋子。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLd9sbt2ivr-p4aLXHNKeBSXPsSffCDC9KiUSBhchAMtfKxHBcTgLt1QL_UyWIv1f1oTr-kLlTG7HpGYSaHU_O9N6tGhbi7BklY6QZPg5DvUDRXZ4ONXYRpXFbeLlCtNbhZ_CMGblO6lA/s400/708+bker+long+boots+%25E9%2595%25B7%25E7%25AD%2592%25E6%25A9%259F%25E8%25BB%258A%25E9%259D%25B4+02.jpg" title="馬靴世家男生長筒馬靴(機車靴)" width="266" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/" target="_blank">量腳訂製的男生長靴(機車靴)</a></td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區承德路七段344巷9號25.1178653 121.5043860000000721.3949963 116.34081200000007 28.840734299999998 126.66796000000006tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-21613900143428296392017-09-20T22:05:00.001+08:002018-11-27T15:15:06.018+08:00此和尚鞋非彼和尚鞋—孟克鞋Monk Shoes/ Monk Strap Shoes<h3>
Monk Shoes ≠ 和尚鞋?</h3>
Monk Shoes翻譯成中文即是和尚鞋或僧侶鞋的意思,實際上,應該說是修士鞋(即是歐洲修道院裡修道士所穿的鞋子),和我們認知寺廟和尚穿的和尚鞋是不一樣的。為了避免與出家人所穿的和尚鞋混淆,將這種没有鞋帶而是設計用飾帶(片)和鞋釦取代鞋帶的鞋子,直接音譯為<span style="color: #0b5394; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/5964aa950a63e7c471000004/" target="_blank">孟克鞋</a>。</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/products?categories=%E7%94%B7%E9%9E%8B%20Men%27s%20Shoes-%E7%B4%B3%E5%A3%AB%E9%9E%8B%20Formal%20Shoes" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="889" data-original-width="1200" height="473" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSrTjWfgLL7Ck5X_wIqbrATWhwXVa6UYz7w5sTNaAfFFHePXr_-vrCjcVNxvnw_2hKNXAljXhiW8uH3fKOR8DcnRp7G5K9pbx0gPhM7NivmdlefwrsaJjk442REebnZ_id8dceOgkjP5A/s640/Botas+Monk+shoes+%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">馬靴世家雙釦孟克鞋(monk strap shoes)和孟克裸靴(monk strap boots)</span></td></tr>
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<h3>
孟克鞋Monk strap shoes的演變</h3>
孟克鞋的發明是無法考證的,只能推論孟克鞋的起源大約是在中世紀(15世紀),在歐洲修道院的修士穿著帶扣的涼鞋演變而來,修士們除了禱告外還要從事園藝工作,最初的設計很像傳統的羅馬涼鞋,從圖片可以看到扣環和皮帶在腳趾上的位置,每個都可以調整,使涼鞋可以緊固,而且要穿脫容易。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1wMT8iDzHgbroQlFy5rU_U3M5bnPu-TC53zVMZ9KiZZN88wyOBh8EAAHWoZi-wUVAB8Xuc0JAyQb-WBEVnAYbsj3ozP5iDbuDf0VrzsNiiAUi9seO04xWY8zo__EkQgx7-Fh54v9_ouk/s1600/%25E4%25BF%25AE%25E9%2581%2593%25E5%25A3%25AB%25E6%25B6%25BC%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="770" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1wMT8iDzHgbroQlFy5rU_U3M5bnPu-TC53zVMZ9KiZZN88wyOBh8EAAHWoZi-wUVAB8Xuc0JAyQb-WBEVnAYbsj3ozP5iDbuDf0VrzsNiiAUi9seO04xWY8zo__EkQgx7-Fh54v9_ouk/s400/%25E4%25BF%25AE%25E9%2581%2593%25E5%25A3%25AB%25E6%25B6%25BC%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">中世紀修道士的涼鞋</span></span></td></tr>
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在山丘上,因為修道士長時間工作的需要,於是,他們的鞋子必需要柔軟,穿著涼鞋沒有辦法保護足部,修士們需要一雙能覆蓋腳的實用鞋子,且要堅固耐用,可以承受崎嶇的地形,解決方式是將鞋子改良成封閉式來替代的傳統皮帶涼鞋,讓修士擁有更多的方便和保暖,出遠門不需擔心地形和天氣。<br />
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後來,傳說有一位英國人注意到了這種鞋子,並帶了一雙回家。當他回到英國時,當地人很喜歡這鞋子,因而流行起來。<br />
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<h3>
孟克鞋的種類</h3>
孟克鞋的結構類似德比鞋(Derby)和布布魯徹爾鞋(Blucher),它多了飾片或飾帶(strap)遮住鞋舌和左右襟片,而且蓋住中間搭接,然後用鞋釦(buckle)來取代鞋帶調整鬆緊。它不像繫帶鞋"<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/58b7d0d5df8c648951000002/" target="_blank">牛津鞋</a>"</span></span>和"<span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/58cbc66e1831c8762e000002/" target="_blank">德比鞋</a>"</span>那麼正式。素面孟克鞋又比<b><a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/5964aa950a63e7c471000004/" target="_blank">趾帽(toe-cap)</a></b>或<a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/59633d4591d7012c09000002/" target="_blank">雕花(brouge)</a>的孟克鞋顯得更正式。孟克鞋和其他繫帶鞋相比有穿脫方便的優勢,擔心<span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/58a5386ede2db2cc28000002/" target="_blank">樂福鞋</a></span>太休閒,可以選擇孟克鞋來穿著。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwdkGHT9KlEIVRLuQwxm3-4YQw9ZbkeX62ajp4n9Si3rEv4V0-uuto3-Wn6qaOu8P3WBCNuilFLbbqHbEkqUAjGyV3mPFSpfiiQLbxLwulpSR06qcAN84b2hulyDLMs5M_t3k3Oo81Cvg/s1600/monk+shoes+drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1203" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwdkGHT9KlEIVRLuQwxm3-4YQw9ZbkeX62ajp4n9Si3rEv4V0-uuto3-Wn6qaOu8P3WBCNuilFLbbqHbEkqUAjGyV3mPFSpfiiQLbxLwulpSR06qcAN84b2hulyDLMs5M_t3k3Oo81Cvg/s640/monk+shoes+drawing.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">孟克鞋結構圖</span></td></tr>
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孟克鞋的重點在於它的鞋釦數量和形狀。過去,<span style="color: blue;"><b>單釦孟克鞋(single monk strap)</b></span>是最常見的也是最傳統的,但是,近年來流行的是<span style="color: blue;"><b>雙釦孟克鞋(double monk strap)</b></span>,雙釦設計比單釦設計更具時尚且年輕化。有些甚至設計3個或更多的釦子作特殊變化,但還是以雙釦設計較受大眾青睞。<br />
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<a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/5964aa950a63e7c471000004/" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">馬靴世家獨家開發紳士孟克鞋</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSJgJWW0S_cD2I2ca9BLp3TJhXEGaZoAn17k7t4CxYF-DTt17eEwczivtIc-1j2THs-Ypu3R5yjRpSEPTNMa33U9DpOab90Xz7SuzhIP6ZKILYzJV6PCHnKN6Bl4mNtIs4rDCsYe02bYA/s1600/2527+single+buckle+monk+dress+shoes+%25E5%2596%25AE%25E9%2587%25A6%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSJgJWW0S_cD2I2ca9BLp3TJhXEGaZoAn17k7t4CxYF-DTt17eEwczivtIc-1j2THs-Ypu3R5yjRpSEPTNMa33U9DpOab90Xz7SuzhIP6ZKILYzJV6PCHnKN6Bl4mNtIs4rDCsYe02bYA/s400/2527+single+buckle+monk+dress+shoes+%25E5%2596%25AE%25E9%2587%25A6%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" title="馬靴世家單釦孟克鞋" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.botas.com.tw/menshoes/category/1" target="_blank">馬靴世家單釦孟克皮鞋</a></div>
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<span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/5964aa950a63e7c471000004/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="726" data-original-width="1200" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTLUDDVKqit-uv2aIv-EKxnSyW14AYasKRrVd8wfw5etS0sZfuGOKAbmYntnKFlTNHuFC31I4TGb4DYox0vknNmkk55HpPaGUf7XR2DnOLTRojSuNGYGgB6CWP6zKFOq0xgI-Jjuh-9Ck/s640/%25E5%2596%25AE%25E9%2587%25A6%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><br />
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<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
現成的(Ready to wear) VS. 訂製的(Bespoke)孟克鞋</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrGVRT_47oDzJW-ASw1gMX-ahwje6Z5_D8jHaNPkxQNoq-p729VcSC9PIrSijM_j7FwJqXRAq41eq1UADUWirVmbPShX-XuptFeZFkz6eGG4dxf7VPAGPm2IDMVHMHDEyT7YoIG7eJoo/s1600/Botas+monk+strap+loafers++%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E6%25A8%2582%25E7%25A6%258F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="992" data-original-width="1600" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrGVRT_47oDzJW-ASw1gMX-ahwje6Z5_D8jHaNPkxQNoq-p729VcSC9PIrSijM_j7FwJqXRAq41eq1UADUWirVmbPShX-XuptFeZFkz6eGG4dxf7VPAGPm2IDMVHMHDEyT7YoIG7eJoo/s640/Botas+monk+strap+loafers++%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E6%25A8%2582%25E7%25A6%258F.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">不同皮質和配色的雙釦孟克樂福女鞋(Double strap monk loafers)</span></td></tr>
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1.) 現有的孟克鞋一般會多個鞋帶孔供調整腳背的鬆緊度,如果你是完美主義者,訂製的孟克鞋根據你的腳背圍只打一個鞋帶孔,使鞋子看起來更細膩別緻。<br />
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2.) 在鞋釦的樣式和顏色,做好的孟克鞋是無法做選擇變換的,但訂做的就可以多些飾釦的選擇,而且無論要鍍金、鍍銀、青古銅或黑鎳(槍色)只要有現貨都可以搭配選用。<br />
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3.) 為了符合大眾口味,市售的孟克鞋色彩和皮料的選擇都會比較基本和保守,如果想為自己的穿著來點不一樣,從簡單的雕花到色彩的變化,甚至冒險點做不同材質的設計搭配,孟克鞋是紳士鞋類可以做出多種變化的款式之一。<br />
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4.) 更講究些,訂製手工鞋又可以做不同鞋底的工藝和材質,如果選用的較高級的皮革,相對地,鞋底的材質也不能太隨便,從鞋面到鞋底的由自己決定,這樣的個人風格顯示也只有訂製才能做到了。<br />
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5.) 最後,當然成鞋是你的腳去找合適的鞋子來穿(簡單說就是腳去遷就鞋子),而訂製是量腳做出符合你的腳型的鞋子,這兩種服務的規格是不一樣的,或許您會認為這樣高規格訂製價位一定會很高吧?其實,市場上還是有些平價訂製,可以比較看看。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX5mdg9T_zpvH5lauRcNxQSZzonWDoesMbh65jKB2AG9YY6SWp5PcOojKUv4MMLDtQvaBWHIteWfzyvOE2QROjQPjSy7gv0ghc9Q0AoMkIbYglYal7qwcXf9Kyv1pjGOU6K7vRjOpfOjc/s1600/Botas+monk+strap+boots+%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E7%259F%25AD%25E9%259D%25B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1006" data-original-width="1346" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX5mdg9T_zpvH5lauRcNxQSZzonWDoesMbh65jKB2AG9YY6SWp5PcOojKUv4MMLDtQvaBWHIteWfzyvOE2QROjQPjSy7gv0ghc9Q0AoMkIbYglYal7qwcXf9Kyv1pjGOU6K7vRjOpfOjc/s640/Botas+monk+strap+boots+%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E7%259F%25AD%25E9%259D%25B4.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-size: small;">馬靴世家男士雙釦孟克短靴(Double monk strap boots)</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0xR6534T8lHYMUrQDGLjQkz-k0UwDouCw5oq0KQMAMq78eHRKQZNjloiaiw5vfhZCBuC-mL0nvFhDAdE-WjLQg8BKjOP02KhxeH-9GQiNY7Id5dMs9vJ8dRaIvGA7yreGXtqew3Fj08/s1600/2527+double+buckle+monk+shoes+%25E9%259B%2599%25E9%2587%25A6%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0xR6534T8lHYMUrQDGLjQkz-k0UwDouCw5oq0KQMAMq78eHRKQZNjloiaiw5vfhZCBuC-mL0nvFhDAdE-WjLQg8BKjOP02KhxeH-9GQiNY7Id5dMs9vJ8dRaIvGA7yreGXtqew3Fj08/s640/2527+double+buckle+monk+shoes+%25E9%259B%2599%25E9%2587%25A6%25E5%25AD%259F%25E5%2585%258B%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" title="客製化孟客皮鞋" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">馬靴世家 客製化粉色雙釦孟克靴(Double monk strap dress shoes)</span></td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區承德路七段344巷9號25.1178653 121.50438600000007-0.40416920000000189 80.195792000000068 50.639899799999995 162.81298000000007tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-75636140384662108552017-08-28T14:50:00.001+08:002017-08-29T17:25:21.516+08:00讓人為之著迷的高跟鞋 - 認識鞋跟 Heels 當女人腳一套上高跟鞋整個人的體態和自信心都感覺不一樣,連男人看了也要心動,儘管知道穿高跟鞋對腳、膝蓋甚至脊椎的傷害,為了追求美麗和顯現身材窈窕曲線還是要忍痛穿,而且更高一點身材比例更好看,但愈高腳承愛壓力愈大,這樣不符合人體工學的鞋子還是歷久不衰,自有它的價值存在,高跟鞋真是讓女性又愛又恨。<br />
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前篇文章介紹台灣較常使用<a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/08/heels.html" target="_blank">男紳士鞋或平底鞋</a>的鞋跟種類,以我們工廠來說,女鞋的部份主要是以休閒類、基本款的淑女鞋或上班族跟鞋為主,至於市面看見Bling bling (閃閃亮亮)或華麗的高跟鞋,是另一種開發和生產,所以對於高跟鞋的認識有限,現在僅以接觸過的鞋跟和加工來簡單介紹說明。<br />
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<h2>
高跟鞋的鞋跟</h2>
<h3>
鞋跟高度的定義:</h3>
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平底:跟高在1" 以下(<2.54cm)。<br />
低跟:跟高在1" ~ 1 3/4" 之間(2.54 - 5.08cm)。<br />
中跟:跟高在2" ~ 2 3/4" 之間(5.08 - 7.62cm)。<br />
高跟:跟高在3" ~ 3 3/4" 之間(7.62 - 10.15cm)。<br />
超高跟:跟高超過4"以上(10.15cm>)。<br />
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<h3>
鞋跟高度:</h3>
跟鞋的<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: large;">鞋跟高度和樣式</span>的決定,一種方式是在設計鞋款時就必需考量設定,然後再根據需要的高度和樣式開跟模,這種方法是在規模生產大量時,從無到有,依據需求設計、開發到生產,所耗的成本多和時間長,並不合適少量的手工鞋。<br />
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第二種方式是以現有鞋楦的高度去找類似鞋跟,再根據用途選擇鞋跟的粗細,休閒類或帥氣個性的鞋子就找粗跟搭配,上班穿或較正式場合的跟鞋會選用較細跟的鞋跟,以這方式找的鞋跟大都基本樣式"簡單不花俏",選擇性少,但可利用加工方式做些變化。萬一,找不到剛好符合的鞋跟,那只好改鞋楦。😞<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-U-btSXZvqk6epX_0qh0oHNsfpNTwCBWTTMCIFCRAKKquUNOxhPdgtXBD665XjanytddaNR2SrVx33FrJHGDUE0ci4sHdSyW81hHjc2EdTO31qC_pagnEaH6YkNvg-1iRfU2F0zxuYIE/s1600/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E8%25B3%25AA%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F%25E6%25A8%2599%25E6%25BA%2596%25E6%259C%25A8%25E6%25A8%25A1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="368" data-original-width="1000" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-U-btSXZvqk6epX_0qh0oHNsfpNTwCBWTTMCIFCRAKKquUNOxhPdgtXBD665XjanytddaNR2SrVx33FrJHGDUE0ci4sHdSyW81hHjc2EdTO31qC_pagnEaH6YkNvg-1iRfU2F0zxuYIE/s640/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E8%25B3%25AA%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F%25E6%25A8%2599%25E6%25BA%2596%25E6%259C%25A8%25E6%25A8%25A1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">女跟鞋鞋跟高度量具</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkBjXkPLSvkiyRav8zqVXqLBNfCjsw-gOl2y3Rn37Q3tkHSUH42dxtkXFFNWQb1_LAnHDGYptxliZb30kgIVBwflt-_4o7VMGUZuq7lDUqYvH2UO-m6O3DTO19A4hAY39uIqK-IALcG8/s1600/%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F%25E6%25AF%2594%25E8%25BC%2583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="220" data-original-width="644" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkBjXkPLSvkiyRav8zqVXqLBNfCjsw-gOl2y3Rn37Q3tkHSUH42dxtkXFFNWQb1_LAnHDGYptxliZb30kgIVBwflt-_4o7VMGUZuq7lDUqYvH2UO-m6O3DTO19A4hAY39uIqK-IALcG8/s640/%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F%25E6%25AF%2594%25E8%25BC%2583.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">(左圖)先用木跟量具量需要的高度與楦頭的穩定度,再找類似接近的鞋跟(右圖)</span></span></td></tr>
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<h3>
鞋跟材質:</h3>
現在普遍使用高跟鞋的<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: medium;">鞋跟材質</span>主要為ABS鞋跟和PVC鞋跟,二者都屬於<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-size: large;">塑料</span>,但也有使用木跟、壓克力鞋跟.....。目前高跟鞋的鞋跟大都是使用環保ABS塑料,因為耐衝擊和穩定度佳。PVC鞋跟因為抗寒性差有毒害不環保漸漸被ABS鞋跟取代。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoARXDYMHymrWl-uUCEOFC8mBztduIVFRerTp_JiHxFHl4Z9m0K0uCqsTgNBxjKoN2Y5LLsxU0EtlhsV_gyxFJ3BNXua484rkKylccNMHHQ4qaSj8OLZ6J6JpTw_wE_xhi14ovPmQTB5Q/s1600/ABS%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="523" data-original-width="1000" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoARXDYMHymrWl-uUCEOFC8mBztduIVFRerTp_JiHxFHl4Z9m0K0uCqsTgNBxjKoN2Y5LLsxU0EtlhsV_gyxFJ3BNXua484rkKylccNMHHQ4qaSj8OLZ6J6JpTw_wE_xhi14ovPmQTB5Q/s320/ABS%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">ABS鞋跟</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: large;">木跟</span>主要是成本考量和穿著時鞋底重量感覺,但木跟可以做很多不同造型,很適合設計師設計多樣的造型的鞋跟又可少量生產。高跟鞋的木跟的木頭材質硬度要求堅硬和抗衝擊力,否則,走路時斷跟就危險,像圖片中的木跟是採用德國的欅木,寒帶的樹木木質比較細密和均勻,但價格就很不親民。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJdrIqVkY4ON6tQbH0rcxhlCh-hgovqXsxXy3Jobmzx5d7R9XVj64FTcerAk4y3bRkKdEPU8KcXz8Vv_KihxQ8ENVKbTB7ggskCg3p_Quu3DxfJY4qK8SXh1JQxctMjd6FwFVAMlNW8Fk/s1600/%25E6%25AC%2585%25E6%259C%25A8%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1139" data-original-width="1600" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJdrIqVkY4ON6tQbH0rcxhlCh-hgovqXsxXy3Jobmzx5d7R9XVj64FTcerAk4y3bRkKdEPU8KcXz8Vv_KihxQ8ENVKbTB7ggskCg3p_Quu3DxfJY4qK8SXh1JQxctMjd6FwFVAMlNW8Fk/s320/%25E6%25AC%2585%25E6%259C%25A8%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">德國櫸木鞋跟質地細緻和天然木紋</span></td></tr>
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很多透明的鞋跟大都是屬<span style="color: red; font-size: large;">壓克力鞋跟</span>,透明的壓克力有玻璃透明光澤的效果,壓克力也可做有顏色透明的鞋跟,但這種塑膠水晶最怕刮傷和磨擦。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDcIl0q4hrC533vIuy7VS7Ml4HlA62onn75uhAqyzx3Xzk_1eZOXgtW9JmivUUsFBsynErUbFUjFMt__v3V-ffxMqjx429Oxh_BCwRhP2mM3Sff1VjhHCMAdirHmSFAYKQzknc4QLnfDg/s1600/%25E5%25A3%2593%25E5%2585%258B%25E5%258A%259B%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="446" data-original-width="560" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDcIl0q4hrC533vIuy7VS7Ml4HlA62onn75uhAqyzx3Xzk_1eZOXgtW9JmivUUsFBsynErUbFUjFMt__v3V-ffxMqjx429Oxh_BCwRhP2mM3Sff1VjhHCMAdirHmSFAYKQzknc4QLnfDg/s320/%25E5%25A3%2593%25E5%2585%258B%25E5%258A%259B%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">透明壓克力鞋跟</span></span></td></tr>
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<h3>
鞋跟的加工</h3>
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為了整體美觀和搭配鞋面設計,我們看到的鞋跟都已經是加工過了,加工方法有很多種,比較常見的有包皮革、烤漆、包層皮、 電鍍、水轉印、印刷、鑲鑽等等。<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3rX2xI2CAPdHGn3rJ46D4t4tfJ8jS0BVqglhGsyHe7yEIRoGcC_Jhv0QMjZrR6UJh1nb8Z95qwmTfKxkxVF94-NpozHoNkzglUR5rUFibQEO2xF04WThv0GyfODUdg_RdriWlkRzgwAA/s1600/%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F%25E5%258A%25A0%25E5%25B7%25A5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1203" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3rX2xI2CAPdHGn3rJ46D4t4tfJ8jS0BVqglhGsyHe7yEIRoGcC_Jhv0QMjZrR6UJh1nb8Z95qwmTfKxkxVF94-NpozHoNkzglUR5rUFibQEO2xF04WThv0GyfODUdg_RdriWlkRzgwAA/s640/%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F%25E5%258A%25A0%25E5%25B7%25A5.jpg" width="532" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">層皮是用植鞣皮革一層一層堆疊黏貼,然後削成一片片</span></td></tr>
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<h3>
跟鞋的天皮</h3>
一般高跟鞋的鞋跟天皮材質為PVC和PU,市面上所說的<span style="color: red;">靜音天皮</span>即為PU天皮。PU特性耐磨而且有彈性、吸震,防滑性佳,缺點因PU屬環保材質,太久時間没穿水氣(潮濕)會讓PU水解,但經常穿或偶爾拿出來穿可延長使用壽命。PVC天皮即<span style="color: red;">塑膠天皮</span>,一般天皮都是PVC材質,耐磨性較差,不耐寒,硬度硬,所以走路時發出聲音會較響亮,但成本相對較便宜。<br />
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囉囉嗦嗦</h4>
除非腳已經受傷無法穿高跟鞋,要女生捨棄高跟鞋不穿是不容易的事,但要懂得讓腳休息和保護保養,才不會讓腳受傷,雖然<span style="color: red;">手工訂製鞋可以改善</span>,讓一些高跟鞋的愛好者穿得舒適些,譬如皮料選用軟的,後跟要穩定,軟一點鞋墊,量趾圍做符合自己腳寛避免姆指外翻或惡化,用粗跟替代細跟,但必竟高跟鞋的高度會使人重心往前,長時間穿著會讓腳前掌受到壓迫和腳趾受到擠壓,備一雙平底鞋替換,善待自己的腳,讓它喘息一下,這樣自己的腳才能長長久久、健健康康跟著我們一輩子行走天涯,否則,寸步難行。穿對鞋子腳不痛,心情也愉快。<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-46932991370010215172017-08-14T17:03:00.000+08:002017-08-28T14:49:22.755+08:00手工皮鞋(紳士皮鞋或平底鞋)的鞋跟 shoes heels<h2 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
為什麼鞋子有鞋跟? 鞋跟是什麼材質做的?</h2>
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一般人買鞋大都會將焦點放在鞋跟的高度"平底"、"低跟"、"高跟",或許有部份會考慮鞋跟的粗細,很少人會注意到鞋跟材質,鞋跟也是鞋子的重要的部份,它是專業性的,鞋跟材質也會影響鞋子穿著走路時的舒適性、耐用性、穩定性和鞋子整體質感。</div>
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鞋跟的由來</h3>
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鞋跟的由來是十六世紀波斯人為了騎馬所設計,穿著有鞋跟的鞋子讓騎士可以穩定的站在馬蹬內不會滑進馬蹬內,射箭時就能堅實穩定射擊。</div>
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相信嗎?男生穿有鞋跟的鞋子比女生早先。女生的高跟鞋是複製男鞋原理而來的,後來女生將跟鞋發揚光大,因為女生穿著高跟鞋有修飾身材和顯腳小,走路展現婀娜多姿,使女生更加性感具吸引力,漸漸地高跟鞋成為現代流行。<br />
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男生的鞋子講求氣慨和穿著舒適,高鞋跟只能讓他們看起來身高一些,因為男生體重和工作關係鞋跟容易磨損的缺點,後來發展成男皮鞋採用粗(大面積)低鞋跟,符合男生穿著要求"耐磨和舒適"。</div>
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為了因應生活中需要的不同用途,鞋子鞋底材質和性能的設計愈來愈多樣多變以符合每個人在不同場景和環境下選擇合適的鞋子穿著。<br />
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<h2>
鞋底底部結構</h2>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/products?category=%E9%9D%B4%20Boots" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="1000" height="497" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb8ucXki1ojGMU4ei8npJ7GUtoNvdQGzcyvnp25jnGE-0NGySGwlchjEKAIFNZqF2Rls2Qj7GP8vvkYKvd7GWDiN-wIHknazUPhhyphenhyphenqWDFOz-EXl4wx2M77MbIzKuGTHMME3q9VUj71S4I/s640/chelsea+boots+outsole.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/products?category=%E9%9D%B4%20Boots" target="_blank">組合式皮鞋鞋底結構圖</a></span><br />
<a href="http://www.botas.tw/products?category=%E9%9D%B4%20Boots" target="_blank"><br /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
鞋底工序滿複雜,包括中底(insole)、大底(outsole)和鞋跟(heel)等等材料組合加工構成底部。<br />
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大底有很多種材質:橡膠鞋底、生膠鞋底、塑膠(P VC)鞋底、PU鞋底(環保鞋底)、EVA鞋底、軟木鞋底、皮革鞋底(皮底)、木底....。鞋底的主要特性就是要耐磨、耐熱、防衝擊、有彈性、不易變型、防滑等具有保護腳的效果,但很多時尚流行設計這些特徵並不成為主要考量,我們常在時裝伸展台看見模特兒走秀時穿著鞋子鞋底造型極其誇張。<br />
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依照上圖鞋底結構,我們先從鞋跟部份談起,重點將放在組合式鞋底的鞋跟,這是大多數高級正裝(紳士)皮鞋或平底皮鞋使用的鞋底。在手工訂製鞋方面也偏向採用組合式鞋底,因為它可裁切打磨處理以修飾符合訂製者特殊腳型和材質選擇,不像一體成型鞋底形狀、厚度、尺碼、材料都固定無法修改和做不同材質搭配。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM7PlQMtD6Oy923zqMyeu00q4n64JzKnDe8m8vDP9uHcF_gO2D-McG1o4O9WrE32iPzOTTlN7_P6zKf2-fo34Ec_uh6loehXXwqSqDbf6p7Tr0nnfQ_c0VNjipcc2pms1WKWHhpTdImhw/s1600/%25E4%25B8%2580%25E9%25AB%2594%25E6%2588%2590%25E5%259E%258B%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25BA%2595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM7PlQMtD6Oy923zqMyeu00q4n64JzKnDe8m8vDP9uHcF_gO2D-McG1o4O9WrE32iPzOTTlN7_P6zKf2-fo34Ec_uh6loehXXwqSqDbf6p7Tr0nnfQ_c0VNjipcc2pms1WKWHhpTdImhw/s400/%25E4%25B8%2580%25E9%25AB%2594%25E6%2588%2590%25E5%259E%258B%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25BA%2595.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">一體成型鞋底</span></td></tr>
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<h3>
皮鞋鞋跟</h3>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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標準男皮鞋或女生的平底鞋的<span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">鞋跟高度</span>大約都在1"之間,這高度穿起來應該是最舒服,只有特殊鞋靴,譬如牛仔靴、機車靴、舞鞋或增高鞋才會用比較高的鞋跟。<br />
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或許我們有穿過鞋子,感覺好像有點後仰,這情況可能鞋跟太低;或者感覺穿著時腳前背會酸酸痛痛的,或姆指頂到鞋頭,或鞋子不跟腳(掉腳),這有可能是因為鞋跟後跟太高(另原因也有可能是鞋楦問題),造成著地點往前。由此可知,鞋跟的高度也會影響穿著的舒適。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgviCROzLSpgWspLNgOIlxzTUtqkLb6phdeW27tQkakcb8DKQlmdKjsDUnTL_P1mrimrUv9sWRBQssPDRDhDo14wq7LcKq-OZhIfxzyi1sq0Sziw2X2BrJ5uz4oqbXbzbDy_mV-72A_c3o/s1600/%25E9%2587%258F%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F%25E9%25AB%2598%25E5%25BA%25A6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="1000" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgviCROzLSpgWspLNgOIlxzTUtqkLb6phdeW27tQkakcb8DKQlmdKjsDUnTL_P1mrimrUv9sWRBQssPDRDhDo14wq7LcKq-OZhIfxzyi1sq0Sziw2X2BrJ5uz4oqbXbzbDy_mV-72A_c3o/s400/%25E9%2587%258F%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F%25E9%25AB%2598%25E5%25BA%25A6.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">根據該鞋的鞋楦量鞋跟高度</span></td></tr>
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目前手工鞋(台灣紳士皮鞋或平底皮鞋)主要的<span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">鞋跟材料</span>~<br />
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<h4>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1. 木漿跟:</span></b></h4>
它的原料就是密集板,密集板是以極細木屑加膠之後高溫壓製而成的,密度均勻,表面細緻,易切割和雕割,每片密集板的厚度大約6mm,用來做鞋跟厚度需一層一層貼合堆疊,假設我們鞋跟高度20mm那就要用四層密集板黏貼組合,然後在把多餘部份削除。<br />
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現在大多數皮鞋都是使用木漿跟,原因是價廉耐用,材料取得容易,可切割抛磨,環保減少樹木砍伐。它的缺點是怕浸泡於水,不過都已做防潮防水處理,只要不要浸泡水裡,碰到水擦乾,然後,陰乾晾乾即可。<br />
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鞋跟廠的老闆說大約二十幾年前因為木頭短缺因而價格上漲,供不應求,當時,密集板的材質質量也有了進步,成本考量之下,鞋廠也都轉向使用木漿跟。<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8A1ze_nOsHrx8SR2oJl3UP7_bhUXR0RrEB8IKzV7U-muw7-JmpHpv2N2ckgRz5fYWmvQ_Pa9Xkjo6xLaPoQ12UmTr9jggraD_PX8D3Mwkux4mPJw3m6NNZl1Hn-nPm2qDFh8TOp-tRtI/s1600/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E6%25BC%25BF%25E8%25B7%259F-%25E5%25AF%2586%25E9%259B%2586%25E6%259D%25BF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1393" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8A1ze_nOsHrx8SR2oJl3UP7_bhUXR0RrEB8IKzV7U-muw7-JmpHpv2N2ckgRz5fYWmvQ_Pa9Xkjo6xLaPoQ12UmTr9jggraD_PX8D3Mwkux4mPJw3m6NNZl1Hn-nPm2qDFh8TOp-tRtI/s640/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E6%25BC%25BF%25E8%25B7%259F-%25E5%25AF%2586%25E9%259B%2586%25E6%259D%25BF.jpg" width="457" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">木漿跟使用的密集板</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqFvoPqsY0dTj8j1yxImUfFnKYpp9Awu8mtwHEfXlzRGiwbdD00mEqijb_DxP9b5k3flJybSRpaBmzlCiTJsAivHH1gm81CVlfKAAxR-VO8OTgwMvhbnQpOOY1qsMwCgjEyaBtGpcsEg/s1600/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E6%25BC%25BF%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="800" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqFvoPqsY0dTj8j1yxImUfFnKYpp9Awu8mtwHEfXlzRGiwbdD00mEqijb_DxP9b5k3flJybSRpaBmzlCiTJsAivHH1gm81CVlfKAAxR-VO8OTgwMvhbnQpOOY1qsMwCgjEyaBtGpcsEg/s400/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E6%25BC%25BF%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">木漿跟</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/58331a50cd1250fb27000001/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="801" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYAzRuJ3B6TpSBV7Z0qloSvgqAyWn6r_sLrTluzwtck1GEx63Ne7zxitgTGoR0o5o7ATzOQdOFCOwTsxxOUcfwErEgp12W0PmyLqtiOcjt7QI1UFCWo0fVpywauLs8Bjh69H8mep31t6k/s400/Botas+women+lace+up+boots.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/58331a50cd1250fb27000001/" target="_blank">木漿跟的黃靴(木漿跟後加工處理的得當質感可以很像木跟)</a></span></span></td></tr>
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">2. 木跟:</span></h4>
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<div>
目前台灣木跟使用的木材大部份是橡膠木,多年前還使用較高檔北美松木、橡木、欅木,但因為價格問題現在大都採用橡膠木來製做木跟。没錯!它就是生產經濟作物"天然橡膠"的橡膠樹,過了盛產期就砍伐用來做橡膠木,它是屬於中級的原木,不易裂開,可塑性佳,適合製作有造型曲線的鞋跟。</div>
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買進來的橡膠木就是像圖片那樣"一長條"狀,需要時再用切割機或鋸子做出要的厚度,不像木漿跟厚度需上膠貼合,木跟最怕裁切時碰到木頭裡有蛀孔或節疤,那塊木頭就報癈。<br />
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木跟與木漿跟和皮跟相比,它是比較耐潮濕不怕水的浸泡,但因為木頭的硬度比木漿跟或皮跟小,太用力撞到鞋跟可能就會凹洞情況。其實,每樣都東西都有它的優缺點,我們在決定選用時就要衡量我們鞋子的主要功能性。</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnTCelRTjYtT_oQ_kaeWuYK71jYsSdEv2tSTn73Y-mJjrakl350iKWizSaH8ahsYhq5z9YVHnfy7rC5GhkewkOLryrHKqPnDcGgWSI0PEvjy-nxz9kGorDLiqMTHan19dVPsTUNp6iayc/s1600/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E8%25B7%259F-%25E6%25A9%25A1%25E8%2586%25A0%25E6%259C%25A8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="714" data-original-width="1000" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnTCelRTjYtT_oQ_kaeWuYK71jYsSdEv2tSTn73Y-mJjrakl350iKWizSaH8ahsYhq5z9YVHnfy7rC5GhkewkOLryrHKqPnDcGgWSI0PEvjy-nxz9kGorDLiqMTHan19dVPsTUNp6iayc/s400/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E8%25B7%259F-%25E6%25A9%25A1%25E8%2586%25A0%25E6%259C%25A8.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">木跟使用的橡膠木</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEHEvpZvfdIbipBVKEvpVfr5z7OnVna59oIGc1nBd9S9ziEMeD7P-rkxFODiCe8S-W8NtqfCiP0tS8ADzD8daoJ2BGSxeY5GwU9Oou6-FZT9058OF2xZ5hc7dxo4QL-jMKksTqO8AwYg/s1600/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEHEvpZvfdIbipBVKEvpVfr5z7OnVna59oIGc1nBd9S9ziEMeD7P-rkxFODiCe8S-W8NtqfCiP0tS8ADzD8daoJ2BGSxeY5GwU9Oou6-FZT9058OF2xZ5hc7dxo4QL-jMKksTqO8AwYg/s400/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">木跟</span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE_sk6qMJKDXv7Kl7Lb3A_rv-BvCkjHQQoybYaLkoLlXoDdl3z0GPinDU17A67AxQQo96c14htX5nE9BD3_uJaVADVmYpsjRkENaa2tkRRwZsrjQl_2hIGCd0WMo-mUtjZEr75LMFNKZg/s1600/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E8%25B7%259F%25E5%2592%258C%25E6%259C%25A8%25E6%25BC%25BF%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="1000" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE_sk6qMJKDXv7Kl7Lb3A_rv-BvCkjHQQoybYaLkoLlXoDdl3z0GPinDU17A67AxQQo96c14htX5nE9BD3_uJaVADVmYpsjRkENaa2tkRRwZsrjQl_2hIGCd0WMo-mUtjZEr75LMFNKZg/s640/%25E6%259C%25A8%25E8%25B7%259F%25E5%2592%258C%25E6%259C%25A8%25E6%25BC%25BF%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">木跟和木漿跟<br />
左邊的木跟可清楚看見天然不規則木紋; 右邊木漿跟表面像紙張細緻,顏色均勻。</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Holy25BscylqUpFqvedMaZWjtqOn2raKI2fta7GCmKByyIZngmjJdSER9U-T5Y1WJWMHQEF9W2js3kqXYQ9kiANgNvSo-ke0j6Vn5-5YQHSatOgvD7urliopdHsp0Goxmgea3UR6yEQ/s1600/botas+biker+boots+%25E6%25A9%259F%25E8%25BB%258A%25E9%259D%25B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1110" data-original-width="1000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Holy25BscylqUpFqvedMaZWjtqOn2raKI2fta7GCmKByyIZngmjJdSER9U-T5Y1WJWMHQEF9W2js3kqXYQ9kiANgNvSo-ke0j6Vn5-5YQHSatOgvD7urliopdHsp0Goxmgea3UR6yEQ/s400/botas+biker+boots+%25E6%25A9%259F%25E8%25BB%258A%25E9%259D%25B4.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">木跟的機車靴</span></span></td></tr>
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">3. 皮跟:</span></h4>
皮跟使用的皮革是植鞣牛皮,植鞣革纖維組織紮實,延展性小、可塑性佳易成型、油脂少,植鞣革屬義大利品質最好,而且鞋底與鞋跟用的植鞣皮革比鞋墊、鞋面和中底用要紮實(紮實相對就會比較質硬和耐磨),所以一般都會用刀模輔助裁切。<br />
<br />
製作鞋底和鞋跟所使用的植鞣皮革厚度約是5mm左右,因為動物皮的厚度限制,鞋跟的高度大都在1"左右,只能用多層堆疊方式達到所需的厚度,一層一層貼合堆疊的表面花紋反而是一種天然美。<br />
<br />
基本上,皮底手工鞋更講究才會搭配採用皮鞋跟,但鞋跟層層堆疊的使用量也滿多的,相對影響材料成本,為了成本考量,鞋廠大都不採用皮跟,而且認為木跟或木漿跟穿著的感受與皮跟差距不大,而且鞋跟都塗上深色的染料,看起來都一樣無太大差別。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghla75E5mmyPYm_Rqynb2m743RN5DdkgI5AiUj6bbitrCsNfWDfX7ymQbj1xStFQzd0dcL3hBVmENH3H22Oi2oLctPJanUmoFEc95hB3ffJVmLSaOepYxSCf7MnFHbiimwwQOWWJFzsVs/s1600/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259D%25A9%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="405" data-original-width="1000" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghla75E5mmyPYm_Rqynb2m743RN5DdkgI5AiUj6bbitrCsNfWDfX7ymQbj1xStFQzd0dcL3hBVmENH3H22Oi2oLctPJanUmoFEc95hB3ffJVmLSaOepYxSCf7MnFHbiimwwQOWWJFzsVs/s640/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259D%25A9%25E9%259E%258B%25E8%25B7%259F.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">義大利植鞣牛皮鞋跟</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjYjdZZ8mwcDUxvt-DZLA29COxEEyebFkN5pYIt9PH_zv_lHl0M5QHVDV8Dkx-Y-stvXsKh-gj-Vot-m6r6iU-fElAhaGV48neLA4d3r1UXBTSypecZ1LYAKsSKnk03WSXBvLiuf5q0qw/s1600/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E8%25B7%259F%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="507" data-original-width="1000" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjYjdZZ8mwcDUxvt-DZLA29COxEEyebFkN5pYIt9PH_zv_lHl0M5QHVDV8Dkx-Y-stvXsKh-gj-Vot-m6r6iU-fElAhaGV48neLA4d3r1UXBTSypecZ1LYAKsSKnk03WSXBvLiuf5q0qw/s400/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E8%25B7%259F%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">皮跟上了染劑加工處理已經看不清楚皮革堆疊的紋路</span></td></tr>
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完成的鞋跟後,一般會在鞋跟最底下加貼一片5mm厚的橡膠天皮,目的是防滑和避免主體的鞋跟磨損,橡膠天皮必竟比木頭或皮革較耐磨而且替換維修的成本低,所以當穿著的皮鞋鞋跟底下的橡膠天皮磨掉或磨缺角,記得送修換天皮,不要傷到鞋跟本體,否則嚴重甚至要換掉整個鞋跟。<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-71656983713500144502017-07-06T23:31:00.000+08:002017-07-11T22:13:21.466+08:00皮與鞋的關係 (二) 皮革的塗飾工藝<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKm_2Nr3Ni6vU2OcLpUgR92SjkbMF8cYikdEHZQwlAG_5NjaNzSB4VoX3bt2QZlXL24GkOvbaTUPgAUjCyV8rwMYUk2pu4TIYTdgfvmj-1j8DeKW3B7vv-R8iS_nlCxiz1hUBeoUSPMLk/s1600/%25E7%2589%259B%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%2593%25A5%25E6%25A8%2582%25E7%25A6%258Fvs%25E9%25BA%2582%25E7%259A%25AE%25E6%25A8%2582%25E7%25A6%258F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1088" data-original-width="1000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKm_2Nr3Ni6vU2OcLpUgR92SjkbMF8cYikdEHZQwlAG_5NjaNzSB4VoX3bt2QZlXL24GkOvbaTUPgAUjCyV8rwMYUk2pu4TIYTdgfvmj-1j8DeKW3B7vv-R8iS_nlCxiz1hUBeoUSPMLk/s400/%25E7%2589%259B%25E5%25B7%25B4%25E5%2593%25A5%25E6%25A8%2582%25E7%25A6%258Fvs%25E9%25BA%2582%25E7%259A%25AE%25E6%25A8%2582%25E7%25A6%258F.jpg" width="367" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-size: small;">上圖是麂皮(二榔皮)樂福鞋; 下圖是牛巴哥(全粒面皮革); <br />二種皮料呈現各自不同感覺和特色</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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皮革完成鞣制處理後,將皮革上色,可以直接在表面上色或者將整張皮染色。很多皮革都是先整張染色然後在表皮上色,依這些皮革表面上色/塗飾的處理過程,通常將皮革主要分為三類:<br />
<h3>
<ul>
<li>全苯染皮 Full Aniline Leather (或稱苯胺皮)</li>
<li>半苯染皮 Semi Aniline Leather (半苯胺皮)</li>
<li>塗料皮 Pigmented Leather </li>
</ul>
</h3>
<div>
<span style="color: red;">簡單說<span style="color: blue;"><b>塗飾就像化妝</b></span><span style="color: red;">,</span>全</span><span style="color: red;">苯染皮革就像膚質好的不用太多粉飾甚至裸妝都很美,呈現就是自然美。皮膚稍微差點有豆疤或斑斑點點就要稍稍用粉底遮瑕修飾改善表面膚質,但皮膚感覺還是透氣的,這淡妝就像半苯染。當然,塗料皮就像較差皮膚或老化的皮膚需要濃妝豔抺</span>了。<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="color: red;"><b>苯染(苯胺)皮革</b></span>是具有獨特的動物表皮特徵最自然的皮革,它是使用可溶性顏料著色,而且染料會滲透到裡層,染透皮身,此法稱為染透心。全苯染皮表面没有經過處理,保持天然外觀,可以看到皮革上的天然動物紋理和瑕疵:傷疤、血管紋和筋紋、蟲叮咬孔…,皮革也會因為不同的部位(如同人的皮膚)對染料的吸收程度也不一樣,所以會產生色差,因苯染皮革表面無覆蓋難照顧保養,有些皮廠會輕微加些亮光乳液讓表面有些許亮度,並有防止溢色和防污的保護作用。<br />
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大部份的人用全苯染和半苯染的術語來定義皮革的級數,事實上,這二者都是全粒面皮,只是它們差別在於使用染色和後加工的過程,但因為全苯染保有動物皮革自然的紋路,只能選擇最精緻的全粒面皮才適用於全苯染處理。<br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">補充:製作全苯染皮革皮廠會挑選較佳的皮身,但並不代表皮革表面完全無瑕疪。</span></i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkuhMAoAxlz89HJaGPBcvtA2n2ihhhkNrYDepmVxMGDKb4Oz8EZLWltLs1Y7KkZAWTmmlJa0oBk26kx9GYRS0OWupcTtQHlok2IwEyYNQ1Wdp6M4z2rHiwjpzlGIUEA5cbeWJlT4w6LQ4/s1600/%25E8%258B%25AF%25E6%259F%2593%25E7%259A%25AE%25E6%25AF%259B%25E7%25B4%25B0%25E5%25AD%2594%25E6%2594%25BE%25E5%25A4%25A7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="1000" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkuhMAoAxlz89HJaGPBcvtA2n2ihhhkNrYDepmVxMGDKb4Oz8EZLWltLs1Y7KkZAWTmmlJa0oBk26kx9GYRS0OWupcTtQHlok2IwEyYNQ1Wdp6M4z2rHiwjpzlGIUEA5cbeWJlT4w6LQ4/s640/%25E8%258B%25AF%25E6%259F%2593%25E7%259A%25AE%25E6%25AF%259B%25E7%25B4%25B0%25E5%25AD%2594%25E6%2594%25BE%25E5%25A4%25A7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">苯染皮表面動物紋理清楚,放大後可以清晰看到毛細孔,<br />放大圖裡的不規則分佈小細點(像針孔)就是毛細孔</span></td></tr>
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<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
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自從接觸全苯染皮革後就愛上這種皮革來做鞋品,因為皮革的美像是天然的藝術品,但常常經歷內心交戰"品質VS.價位",結果求好的心戰勝了。</div>
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全苯染皮革優點~<br />
1.) 透氣、手感柔和,<br />
2.) 有獨特的顏色變化,使用愈久顏色愈深愈有光澤,<br />
3.) 有動物紋理和陰影的雙色效果,這種自然的美感無法複製,<br />
4.) 高顏值和高品質,對鞋靴百分之百加分。<br />
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然而,它的缺點~<br />
1.) 因為毛孔未被塗料密封,暴露在陽光或強燈下會褪色,<br />
2.) 容易刮傷和磨傷,<br />
3.) 因為透氣而吸水性佳,碰到液體易滲入皮革,導致水漬或油漬成污漬,<br />
4.) 動物傷痕或蟲蛀等瑕疵明顯,<br />
5.) 高價位,<br />
6.) 皮色不均,<br />
7.) 動物紋理没有一個地方是一樣的,<br />
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雖然看似缺點比優點還多,那為什麼還要選用全苯染皮製鞋?說不上來,看慣了全苯染皮的天然美麗與質感,覺得用它才能襯托出自家鞋品的優雅和精緻。<br />
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使用全苯染皮最讓我們困擾的事:一般人認為鞋子的皮革表面上無瑕疪才是好的迷思,依照這樣的標準"塗料皮革"應是好的皮料嗎? 也因為這樣的"完美無瑕"迷思許多台灣專櫃品牌的鞋子為了避免麻煩遭客戶挑剔,乾脆不用全苯染皮革,這樣的循環下結果.......可想而知 "不會有好的商品"。<br />
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">第一件皮為苯染牛巴戈,絨面的吸水性是最明顯。</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">第二件是全粒面苯染牛皮,毛細孔清晰可見,透氣性佳相對吸水性佳。</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">第三件是輕塗料牛皮,因為表面有一層塗料阻隔,所以吸水性差,相對較不透氣,但較具防水防污性。</span></div>
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<b><span style="color: red;">半苯染(半苯胺)皮革</span></b>其剛開始的染浸處理過程與全苯染的方式是相同的,之後,為了改善皮革天然的瑕疵和染色不均,在染色好的皮革表面輕微的加工,添加少許塗料,已非完全天然呈現,但較深的動物天然紋路和傷痕仍沒辦法完成覆蓋,没有太多的塗料加工所以仍部份保有天然的觸感和較不明顯動物紋路,我們也稱為輕塗料皮革。<br />
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半苯染工藝與全苯染類似,差別是表面多了一層薄薄的塗層,使之比苯染更耐磨傷和耐髒污,而且皮革表面顏色較鮮艷和豐富,因而在被使用上比苯染廣泛。世界皮革產量10%-15%都是屬於半苯染。<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>塗料皮革</b></span>是使用的皮身瑕疵較多,然後以塗料上色為主,以掩蓋大部分的瑕疵,甚至皮身顏色並不一定會與皮面顏色相似,由於皮面的紋理已被塗料覆蓋,通常在表面會加壓以不同花紋以達到多樣變化的效果,譬如:荔枝紋、鱷魚紋、仿鹿紋等等,是使用率高的皮革(指皮面坑坑疤疤看不到,因此整件皮革被取用範圍大,損耗相對就少),價格較低,顏色穩定,易保養和維護,所以廣泛的被使用,但手感、皮革光澤和透氣性不如苯染或半苯染皮。<br />
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皮革表面的塗層厚度可以變化,要完全掩飾皮面上的瑕疵塗料就多些,但表面塗料感會變得厚重不真實,失去皮革的價值。<br />
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巿面上銷售的皮鞋很多都因為成本價格考量而使用此種皮料,而且消費者根本分不清楚,認為真皮都是一樣。皮革的等級取決於想要的產品價值定位、外觀美感、產品的用途等等因素。<br />
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除了皮革的塗飾工藝外,皮料因加工技術產生很多種風格,我們常聽到的譬如牛巴哥Nubuck、納帕Nappa、油腊皮pull-up、荔枝紋牛皮、打蠟皮、金屬貼膜皮、漆皮等等,實在難以一一説明。另外,皮革也包含不同動物的皮革:牛、羊、豬和特殊動物。光說到牛皮種類就分有水牛皮、黃牛皮、小牛皮、胎牛皮、公牛皮、母牛皮、養殖的區域和生產地(美洲、歐洲、印度、孟加拉、義大利)以及取用的身體部位。<br />
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説真的皮革學問很高深淵博,只有"做中學"。接下來網誌,將藉由"馬靴世家"製作鞋子常用的一些皮革加以介紹説明。<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-50577343257859467842017-06-26T21:49:00.000+08:002017-06-29T21:32:51.857+08:00皮與鞋的關係 (一) 皮料是皮鞋的門面<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWFvnQNBps1Hy4rlG_XKvayR35UIqngKUPkDu_8r90zVoeapBaxOFXJgmBc4PfQiWZpFLiw6hwxH_q2IBRpw0Ypita4EnoucBJ67_yhZvOP2hrZlzJp648wFgGhl0a9gtD5WAutn95E-U/s1600/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E8%2588%2587%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="1000" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWFvnQNBps1Hy4rlG_XKvayR35UIqngKUPkDu_8r90zVoeapBaxOFXJgmBc4PfQiWZpFLiw6hwxH_q2IBRpw0Ypita4EnoucBJ67_yhZvOP2hrZlzJp648wFgGhl0a9gtD5WAutn95E-U/s640/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E8%2588%2587%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">什麼樣的鞋子搭配合什麼樣的皮料…將決定鞋子的質感和價值。</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">左圖: 植鞣革機車靴(男); 右圖: 羊絨孟克樂福鞋(女)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>
為什麼穿皮製鞋子?</u></span></h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">鞋子的創造發明最主要原因是保護腳。穿著皮製子鞋基本功用是皮革對腳能提供持久的保護,防止受傷和保暖且又透氣,對製鞋來説皮革的彈性和延展性容易塑形。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">目前發現最早的皮鞋屬於2008年在亞美尼亞Armenia的阿雷尼洞穴(Areni-1 cave)發現的鞋子,該鞋有5500年之久,鞋子是牛皮縫製的,做法是用一片牛皮從腳底包覆到腳背,然後縫合 (哈!這也是手工訂製鞋)。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">發現鞋子的洞穴附近地理位置地形堅固都是不規則尖銳石頭和多刺灌木,考古學家判斷會用皮革製鞋的原因"氣候溫度和耐磨",適合出門的長途跋涉的旅程。鞋子除了保護腳之外,鞋子外觀也呈現該部落的風格以區別不同於其他部落。</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjnCv9CLBlobuhO0moduRHTtrXoflAF33_MpvqoI0uoE9nRINDprceM1QjSAqMokLYH4GOD27F89VRxPlNboycBLTJjIjLPjgsmkVhehnL5RyWsSIzBqzq9FeBRvidYgU4t1onz4uGXA4/s1600/%25E9%2598%25BF%25E9%259B%25B7%25E5%25B0%25BC-1+%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="431" data-original-width="600" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjnCv9CLBlobuhO0moduRHTtrXoflAF33_MpvqoI0uoE9nRINDprceM1QjSAqMokLYH4GOD27F89VRxPlNboycBLTJjIjLPjgsmkVhehnL5RyWsSIzBqzq9FeBRvidYgU4t1onz4uGXA4/s320/%25E9%2598%25BF%25E9%259B%25B7%25E5%25B0%25BC-1+%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">5500年前的皮鞋,在阿雷尼洞穴發現</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">皮鞋的氣質和耐用性很大的程度上取決於所選用的材料質量,既然稱為皮鞋,鞋面的主要材料"皮革"就佔很重要的地位。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: large;"><b><u>皮革/ 皮料</u></b></span><br />
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皮革來自動物皮膚,種類有最普遍的牛皮、羊皮、豬皮(豚皮)、馬皮,以及比較特殊和稀有的鹿皮、袋鼠皮、鱷魚皮、蛇皮、魚皮、駱駝、駝鳥皮、象皮和蜥蝪皮等等。相對地,容易取得的皮革它的價位就比較便宜與特殊稀有皮革比較。</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJmNTYj1TQw-u48OO2K1UpzYAq-U3v73Fsu2iKZeaaWjSgizIQbe5pYkNSH1ywiIuci217ZlrHX2VXQw4yh0nqUEC6_BmmmK5iR0Ylv69I9x4WKJ3rwH1zP8PmJp8hu5LrRuzkfY5jf54/s1600/ostrich+skin+booties+and+horse+hair+loafers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="1000" height="329" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJmNTYj1TQw-u48OO2K1UpzYAq-U3v73Fsu2iKZeaaWjSgizIQbe5pYkNSH1ywiIuci217ZlrHX2VXQw4yh0nqUEC6_BmmmK5iR0Ylv69I9x4WKJ3rwH1zP8PmJp8hu5LrRuzkfY5jf54/s640/ostrich+skin+booties+and+horse+hair+loafers.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">特殊皮革表現不同風貌 (左圖: 鴕鳥皮機車靴; 右圖: 馬毛帽趾樂福鞋)</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">從死去的動物身上取下的毛皮無法在這種天然狀態下直接使用,因為它會受到溫度變化而腐爛,經過鞣製將生皮轉化為穩定的熟皮以解決腐壞的問題。<span style="color: #cc0000;">鞣製的方法有二種:</span> 1.) 植物鞣法、2.) 鉻鞣法。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "times new roman";"><span style="color: #cc0000;">1.) 植物鞣:</span>是最古老製作皮革的方法之一,已使用了數千年。它使用從樹皮、樹枝、果類和葉草等植物萃取出單寧酸鞣劑浸泡,鞣製工序時間漫長(約1-3個月),將動物皮膚(生皮)轉化為皮革。這是最環保最天然的皮革,不會對人體有危害,被公認為是高品質皮革,其中又以義大利生產植鞣革品質為最高級。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "times new roman";">植鞣革的皮質延展性小和硬挺,吸水後變軟可塑形,適合皮雕、皮包、皮帶、皮革鞋底和鞋墊,較柔軟的植鞣革則可以用來做鞋面,適當的保養越有光澤,顏色越深沉。植物鞣製皮革的平均使用壽命遠高於鉻鞣革。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "times new roman";"><span style="color: #cc0000;">2.) 鉻鞣法:</span>是目前最普遍且快速的皮革製法,以化學原料鉻塩鞣製,鉻是重金屬,對環境污染大。鉻鞣工序完成約一天時間,鉻鞣製法使皮革應用更靈活有變化和柔軟,可做多種類的顏色。鉻鞣被廣泛使用主要是快速和價格較便宜。全球皮革鉻鞣製佔85%,儘管它不是全天然產品,但它的可變化性、快速、品質穩定和便宜仍是時尚界最常用使用的皮革。</span><br />
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<b><u><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: large;">這皮鞋的皮料是頭層皮嗎? </span><span style="font-size: large;">什麼是頭層皮? </span></u></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">皮膚(生皮)的基本結構:表皮層、真皮層和皮下組織,可用來製皮革的是真皮層。動物皮膚經鞣製(植物鞣或鉻鞣)成皮革過程中表面毛髮會被除去,皮革厚度可以高達10mm ,但它的纖維結構在整個厚度上是不均勻的,層別有粒面、粒面真皮連接層、真皮和肉(請參考下面動物皮革剖面圖解)</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">,在上層是最緊密和最紮實,然後,越往下層纖維結構越膨</span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">鬆且越不耐用直到不用的肉體;上層的表面是光滑即為粒面皮,中間連接層和真皮層即是二榔皮(反毛或絨面皮)。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "times new roman";">一般我們是很少使用全厚度的皮革,因為皮革太厚很難被廣泛使用,最常見到全厚度皮革的物品是"皮帶"。</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">皮革會被削薄片成二層"頭層和絨面"或更多層"頭層、絨面第一層、絨面第二層.....",愈往上層愈高級,因為較低的片層纖維結構密度弱</span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">且不耐用。</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0qDHIA4b5GPxBY7v09XadwqWtMwBwJdCzDG-woe-NunXEap0km4T2fKvRot9cEFK179sobYScQ4eW_KwEkjZ-q-7LOJK0A3B8q8ZdNag_BfWIbVwzEwm5ec-zJzfy7HyapZca6CgyzBY/s1600/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259D%25A9%25E8%25A7%25A3%25E5%2589%2596%25E5%259C%2596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="1000" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0qDHIA4b5GPxBY7v09XadwqWtMwBwJdCzDG-woe-NunXEap0km4T2fKvRot9cEFK179sobYScQ4eW_KwEkjZ-q-7LOJK0A3B8q8ZdNag_BfWIbVwzEwm5ec-zJzfy7HyapZca6CgyzBY/s640/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259D%25A9%25E8%25A7%25A3%25E5%2589%2596%25E5%259C%2596.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">動物皮革剖面圖</span></span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgooRZHNu-NiJ2WLdVADra7ZQ2jZDXZhICArlPLu__DZqFwDT0YQ7VcSyQDrid7mMXtS-knC5iCQOMtvVCr_vO0pwa5mpduY5v-ABt3ijm7NWoeVxKEnpJVP6BIwSD8FB3o1BdVzIZkRc0/s1600/%25E7%259A%25AE%25E9%259D%25A9%25E8%25A7%25A3%25E5%2589%2596%25E5%259C%2596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">皮革被削薄片成頭層和絨面,而這上層的部份就是<span style="color: red;">頭層</span>,很多人都認為只要標示"頭層皮"就是頂級皮料,殊不知它包含<span style="color: blue;">全粒面皮</span>和<span style="color: #38761d;">半粒面皮或修面皮</span>,而這二種皮認真的説品質差別還滿大的。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;">全粒面皮(又稱珠面皮):</span> </span>皮革表面没有經過削磨處理,使其保有上層皮的表面自然光滑的皮膚紋理和毛細孔,既然全粒面皮革是保有動物天然的紋路,所以會要求皮革表面的瑕疵像蚊蟲叮咬孔、傷疤、刀痕等痕跡愈少愈好。全粒面皮革有強靭纖維結構,不易撕裂,因此耐用耐磨又透氣是高級皮革,而且不規則天然紋路的自然感是無法模仿。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> <span style="font-family: "times new roman";">頂級(優質)全粒面皮革甚至對動物生長的環境、年齡和棲息地都是選用的考量。</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykpiJWWo74Zj2oBrNo7Kh1e2GD8Aa56zMV1UlnP3SOrJNL65SkL47-zIJD2wLUvJmEv-T1QtITRC7kduouG4b3noxtQGQI-7Ad6XEZpVCncb2zyU1cZRgrQbj59FF70_SZ_IWuq7M33c/s1600/%25E5%2585%25A8%25E7%25B2%2592%25E9%259D%25A2%25E7%2589%259B%25E7%259A%25AE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="876" data-original-width="1200" height="465" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykpiJWWo74Zj2oBrNo7Kh1e2GD8Aa56zMV1UlnP3SOrJNL65SkL47-zIJD2wLUvJmEv-T1QtITRC7kduouG4b3noxtQGQI-7Ad6XEZpVCncb2zyU1cZRgrQbj59FF70_SZ_IWuq7M33c/s640/%25E5%2585%25A8%25E7%25B2%2592%25E9%259D%25A2%25E7%2589%259B%25E7%259A%25AE.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">自然摔紋全粒面牛皮,纖維結構紮實, 經轉鼓摔紋表面顯現動物天然紋理</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman";"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #38761d;">半粒面皮(又稱修面皮或磨面皮):</span> </span>皮革表面有較多瑕疵不能做全粒面皮,經過打磨處理缺陷和瑕疪後再壓紋仿製粒面,甚至塗料加工,屬較次級皮革,</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">因為皮面紋理磨掉了,表面平整,對要求皮革表面要無瑕疵且顏色均勻,又有價格考量和賣相,半粒面皮是很好的選擇。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "times new roman";">半粒面皮因為有塗料覆蓋比較不透氣也不易褪色,比較没有色差或色不均的問題。</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiirXJzMc69GRnMglWwUvFoQOzd67Y51GQOzVhdBk3Z6olpvDErLj2YQmJzIxCU2N0aorIUHOC9-e5XoFiloYP1c1kdtxt5cNGn8kDfKLwdmdtEL19DSscw9A0sfR5h-SIoltbf_uqbxMw/s1600/%25E5%258D%258A%25E7%25B2%2592%25E9%259D%25A2%25E7%2589%259B%25E7%259A%25AE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1200" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiirXJzMc69GRnMglWwUvFoQOzd67Y51GQOzVhdBk3Z6olpvDErLj2YQmJzIxCU2N0aorIUHOC9-e5XoFiloYP1c1kdtxt5cNGn8kDfKLwdmdtEL19DSscw9A0sfR5h-SIoltbf_uqbxMw/s640/%25E5%258D%258A%25E7%25B2%2592%25E9%259D%25A2%25E7%2589%259B%25E7%259A%25AE.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">荔枝紋修面皮(或荔枝紋頭層皮),纖維結構由上往下漸漸鬆散,表面荔枝紋路較規則平均</span></td></tr>
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</span> <span style="font-family: "times new roman";"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: large;">二榔皮/二層皮(又稱牛麂皮或牛反毛):</span> </span>二榔皮本質上是皮革製造的副產品,它是製革廠將頭層革片取後留下絨質內層,這些內層就是二層皮或稱二榔皮。為了有效使它們於是再加工</span>通常絨面革經磨砂成麂皮或者經塗覆/貼膜仿製成與頭層表面類</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">似的紋理。 </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">麂皮的觸感柔軟但有些粗糙,怕髒污和易吸收液體,耐磨性較差且易褪色。至於現在貼膜皮革技術可以讓表面紋路細緻加上二榔皮真皮的皮身達到高檔皮革效果,幾乎可以匹敵半粒面皮革,讓人幾乎分不清是頭層還是二層皮。</span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">二層皮價格稍低,利用率高,適合做大面積的低價皮革製品,但缺點就是較不久耐。</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">貼膜二層荔枝紋牛皮,纖維結構密度較鬆散,表面荔枝紋路規則均勻,<br />因為貼膜或塗料層厚度厚皮身顏色(底色)不一定與表面顏色同色系</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman";">還没結束喔! 認識皮革的區別之後,下一篇將繼介紹皮革塗飾工藝和加工工法。</span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-62882141319622891272017-06-18T23:07:00.000+08:002017-06-19T10:32:18.968+08:00腳型影響穿著外,也可知個性<h2>
你是什麼腳型?</h2>
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什麼!!!腳和腳趾的形狀可以看出一個人的個性。大家都知道面相和手相,但對自己的腳通常不會想到腳趾和腳形也代表著個性。</div>
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另外,腳型的不同也影響著穿著和鞋子的選擇。為什麼同樣的鞋子我穿腳趾頭會頂到,別人穿就OK? 現在先從了解自己的腳型來幫助選擇鞋子。</div>
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<span style="color: #134f5c; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">一、腳型的特徵。什麼樣的鞋子合適? </span></h3>
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<span style="color: red;"><b>1. 羅馬腳:</b></span><span style="color: #1d2129;"><b> </b>腳前三個腳趾長度相同,其他二個腳趾的長度通常較小。羅馬腳的人具有身材均勻的特徵。</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129;">這種腳的人,一般不推薦高跟鞋,因為腳會向前推減少了腳趾的空間,並導致腳趾皮膚上部的摩擦,應挑選圓頭、方頭鞋。</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">左圖: 羅馬腳; 右圖: 圓頭鞋</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="color: red;">2. 埃及腳: </span></b><span style="color: #1d2129;">這種腳型最普遍,是大拇趾比其他4根腳趾長,大腳趾通常是腳趾中最大的,然後每個腳趾的尺寸變小,亞洲人大都是這種腳型。</span></span></div>
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這種形狀的人穿鞋應該確保大姆趾的空間適當,但要緊貼鞋跟,比較適合穿斜頭鞋。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiFGc6oEvN3rbzTpwtBnkdPdz4W1q8vGUrFokRgjjGxP6vy9lST2gkrHUYfhyphenhyphenRCxv5wQ8dxcz5GH3bDmqK6VyHLnU1zqWsSnSsVSZz7IIqe13I_BAAHRx5ZclShUQu5krG5JsiA1lqcQo/s1600/%25E5%259F%2583%25E5%258F%258A%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="1600" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiFGc6oEvN3rbzTpwtBnkdPdz4W1q8vGUrFokRgjjGxP6vy9lST2gkrHUYfhyphenhyphenRCxv5wQ8dxcz5GH3bDmqK6VyHLnU1zqWsSnSsVSZz7IIqe13I_BAAHRx5ZclShUQu5krG5JsiA1lqcQo/s640/%25E5%259F%2583%25E5%258F%258A%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%259E%258B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">左圖: 埃及腳與斜頭鞋; 右圖: 斜頭鞋</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: red;"><b>3. 希臘腳:</b></span><span style="color: #1d2129;"> 第2根腳趾比其他4根腳趾長的就屬“希臘腳”,這種腳型的人通常四肢修長,多數美女都有希臘腳特徵。</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129;">適合穿尖頭鞋和高跟鞋,由於美女多此腳型所以也叫“美女腳”。</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2ipXucdSYsd_jjQLWeGvW-Rb9JsSui-D9wq7trZw2np5zgmQxAw1sULBRnQlbHqIHsYSamskr6Zye5Slm5CSl5bTxWKKytG0fJ9e13_Yc47Ti3YVUK2SC3-wTqAevMs3NJHDjbUaGUE/s1600/%25E5%25B8%258C%25E8%2587%2598%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%259E%258B%25E7%25A9%25BF%25E6%2596%259C%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B%2528%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="605" data-original-width="1600" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2ipXucdSYsd_jjQLWeGvW-Rb9JsSui-D9wq7trZw2np5zgmQxAw1sULBRnQlbHqIHsYSamskr6Zye5Slm5CSl5bTxWKKytG0fJ9e13_Yc47Ti3YVUK2SC3-wTqAevMs3NJHDjbUaGUE/s640/%25E5%25B8%258C%25E8%2587%2598%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%259E%258B%25E7%25A9%25BF%25E6%2596%259C%25E9%25A0%25AD%25E9%259E%258B%2528%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">左圖: 希臘腳型穿斜頭鞋; 右圖: 尖頭跟鞋</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #134f5c; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">二、從腳型來看看個性:</span></h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCs37V_uGfvUgCjuf7suAnmXUUhhHvjbOB6n5gychjmIJD5hf-HJYdSvi2DlKOpNFQsqEpHrYXcXljZVS9OE9AkxiMYWzpSA8vTr8rNku9bqdDLn-AYStr6W7nAB3ZI1GtNpY6mfhkHyA/s1600/%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%259E%258B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="517" data-original-width="426" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCs37V_uGfvUgCjuf7suAnmXUUhhHvjbOB6n5gychjmIJD5hf-HJYdSvi2DlKOpNFQsqEpHrYXcXljZVS9OE9AkxiMYWzpSA8vTr8rNku9bqdDLn-AYStr6W7nAB3ZI1GtNpY6mfhkHyA/s400/%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%259E%258B.jpg" width="328" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">上排: 三種基本腳型; 下排: 腳型</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">首先,看看腳的整體形狀。</span></h4>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">希臘和羅馬的腳往往比埃及的</span><span style="color: red; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">腳寬</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">得多。寬腳的人是忙碌的,屬於坐不住的人,是活躍型的人。窄腳的人是靜態型的,可以放心把工作交付給這類的人。</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">腳趾的</span><span style="color: red; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">長度</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">在個性上有發言權和企圖心。這是希臘腳的幸運,因為他們有長的第二腳趾,第二腳趾長的人足智多謀,具有領導特質。長腳趾的人被認為是善於管理和協調的工作,能巧妙的問題解決者,因為他們從不同角度看到問題點。相反地,第二個腳趾比其他人短,意味著缺乏自信遇到事情無法面對,但確頭腦冷靜。</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">擁有</span><span style="color: red; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">大姆趾</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">象徵著高度的理性,會看到別人看不到的問題然後解決問題,但缺點是很難持續專注於某事上。</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">埃及腳的人比任何其他人都有明顯的大姆趾,是有創造力和想像力。羅馬腳的人善於挑戰多種任務,而且效率高,同時也是優良的說服者。</span></div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: 15px;">小腳趾</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-size: 15px;">特小的人,表示對事情很容易感到無聊而失去注意力,是個開心果,受歡迎的人。如果小腳趾能夠與其他腳趾分開獨立擺動,這表示有冒險心但浮燥。</span><br />
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<span style="color: #1d2129;">再來,看看腳趾。</span></h4>
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<span style="color: #1d2129;">1. </span><span style="color: red;"><b>埃及腳型</b></span><span style="color: #1d2129;">的人特點是</span><span style="color: red;">衝動和神秘。</span><span style="color: #1d2129;">重視個人隱私,行事神秘。除此之外,他們也是衝動的,有突然的情緒變化。埃及腳的人由於擁有太多的想法,造成無法看到癥結點。據說這種腳的形狀是皇室的腳,他們的個性顯示出來他們喜歡被寵愛和照顧,而審美對他們來說非常重要。</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129;">2. </span><span style="color: red;"><b>羅馬腳型:</b> </span>特徵是<span style="color: red;">平衡與社交。</span>羅馬腳的<span style="color: #1d2129;">人有外向個性和社交性、有魅力,喜歡發現新的文化和新的環境,是個旅行者。喜歡與人交往,懂得如何處理難搞的人物。</span></div>
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羅馬腳的人是一個可以在群眾面前說話的社交人,也適合從商人。</div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: inherit; font-size: 15px;">3. </span><span style="color: red; font-family: inherit; font-size: 15px;"><b>希臘腳型:</b> </span><span style="font-size: 15px;">特徵是<span style="color: red;">創意與熱情。</span></span><span style="font-size: 15px;">希臘腳的</span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: inherit; font-size: 15px;">人對周圍的事務總是感興趣和有計劃,但是有衝動的傾向會導致壓力。這種腳型是常見的運動員,政治家,藝術家和創新者。是一個天生的領導者。</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1d2129;"><b>以上個性分析僅供參考,因為每個人的個性與自己原生家庭和成長環境的影響會有不同。</b>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-91979113681040962032017-05-27T16:15:00.000+08:002017-05-31T22:00:13.458+08:00男鞋與女鞋各不同 Differences in men's and women's leather shoes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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很多長腳的女生很難買到大尺碼的鞋子,通常市面上最大尺碼大概就是到25.5,因此就只好屈就買男生的鞋子來穿,款式或樣式喜不喜歡已經不是很重要了,只要能買到鞋子長度夠可以穿就滿足了,但其實不是很合腳;或者你是小腳的男生因為市面上男鞋尺碼最小大概就6.0再小没有了,只好去買女鞋,但一定不是很舒適,特別是腳掌最寛的位置比較緊,也只能接受或請鞋店老闆將鞋楦寛但效果有限;再者選擇國外品牌的鞋子 ,但台灣進口品牌代理商不一定會進口大尺碼鞋,那只能等出國時多買幾雙。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI6_5nzW1cPtr6mnP2VlK4DGULp65tMpET3-X0Dk62XAgQuueMcD5K4U95sOzm86VGPMGWPSSRnHEIjvYvu0nRqk9HIt7R9KifGAznr63Onxo2cCWosvdEmcX87qNDKW4UFaMWkHN4J9I/s640/men+and+women+oxfords+comparing.png" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><a href="http://www.botas.tw/" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">看得出來?左邊黑色是男鞋;右手邊黑白配是女鞋 ,它們的差別在哪兒? </a></span></span></td></tr>
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市面上有些鞋子的銷售手法是無分女鞋和男鞋,感覺大小腳的男女就不怕買不到尺碼,但事實上男生與女生的骨骼構造有差異,腳也是一樣,女生大腳並不能把她當作是較小型的男生腳。<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajR09r0HFVwLH2jaTS3p7-sCtK2tSkzwL3Vve2Gks_pBDilIJbpl6J754Ly1vPq7J1e7TTuMTdPDmZ4jNcLpAlTaKT-YqoxmOkZbWRQoHYkX_hLD_nMJfqr3QM0F1s1jvrPIAT9WO6hQ/s1600/women+and+men+feet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="566" data-original-width="1000" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajR09r0HFVwLH2jaTS3p7-sCtK2tSkzwL3Vve2Gks_pBDilIJbpl6J754Ly1vPq7J1e7TTuMTdPDmZ4jNcLpAlTaKT-YqoxmOkZbWRQoHYkX_hLD_nMJfqr3QM0F1s1jvrPIAT9WO6hQ/s400/women+and+men+feet.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<h3>
男生與女生腳的結構與差別</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASIMENGed1Hy-yUC3_J2hXY_JscfqLaHYx1lUg17tbONK6CxPlbdpKkq-MhD1oKVcd9nhiijJU6DZ38FYpCBpPbjpjM7i2Pd5Fy34jGfMUvkGl5CwMsBSjjXlvI1fvmTA6PSh1b49HCQ/s1600/%25E7%2594%25B7%25E5%2592%258C%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%25BA%2595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1554" data-original-width="1600" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASIMENGed1Hy-yUC3_J2hXY_JscfqLaHYx1lUg17tbONK6CxPlbdpKkq-MhD1oKVcd9nhiijJU6DZ38FYpCBpPbjpjM7i2Pd5Fy34jGfMUvkGl5CwMsBSjjXlvI1fvmTA6PSh1b49HCQ/s320/%25E7%2594%25B7%25E5%2592%258C%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%25BA%2595.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<li><span style="color: #cc0000;">男生腳長(從後跟到腳板最寛的長度)比女生要長</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #cc0000;">男生趾圍、背圍和後踵寛度要比女生大</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #cc0000;">男生腳的寛度要比女生寛</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #cc0000;">女生的腳弓弧度要比男生彎曲</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #cc0000;">女生腳的外側長度比男生腳的外側長度短</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #cc0000;">女生腳的腳弓位置要比男生高</span></li>
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上面幾點發現男女真的腳型差異滿大的,由此判斷男鞋和女鞋是無法共用同一鞋楦頭,往往很多消費者為了省事省錢,認為這樣可行,可是穿了一陣子還是不很舒服,以我們多年經驗最後消費者如果可以選擇訂做還是會選擇訂製鞋比較合腳和舒適。當然,也會有巧合的事件,例如有些男生腳比較窄和修長,可能女生的鞋子,他也能穿的合腳。總之,依我自己穿鞋的心得假設穿今天穿的鞋子舒適,整天心情都跟著好,不會因為腳痛不舒服而影響心情。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehif7DPxlv3NUY8BmeipQpOdxFJnm0YcondcOSEuu4yv3a12oGX8VmGNC5jyoLRoE6zTA54gXjbVszj2pDOGO4U2F-RE7wXzoLADK5YBo7uoFj1mx7U17dK7YHBnTlp5f-7zsyT_wKJ4/s1600/%25E9%259E%258B%25E4%25B8%25AD%25E5%25BA%2595%2528%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25A2%258A%2529%25E7%2594%25B7%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E6%25AF%2594%25E8%25BC%2583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="1000" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehif7DPxlv3NUY8BmeipQpOdxFJnm0YcondcOSEuu4yv3a12oGX8VmGNC5jyoLRoE6zTA54gXjbVszj2pDOGO4U2F-RE7wXzoLADK5YBo7uoFj1mx7U17dK7YHBnTlp5f-7zsyT_wKJ4/s400/%25E9%259E%258B%25E4%25B8%25AD%25E5%25BA%2595%2528%25E9%259E%258B%25E5%25A2%258A%2529%25E7%2594%25B7%25E5%25A5%25B3%25E6%25AF%2594%25E8%25BC%2583.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">男女鞋中底(鞋墊)比較(同樣都是尺碼24號)</span></span></td></tr>
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現在,從鞋子的中底板(鞋墊)也可以很清楚的看到之間的差異,同樣是尺碼24號男生和女生的差異從照片就可以看出,將兩張中底板疊在一起比較,更可看出之間大大不同。<br />
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再來,我們用下列尺碼圖表也可以證明。下圖表是滑雪靴尺碼對照表,同樣是腳穿的鞋子只是功能不同但原理不變,以腳長24.0來比較(用紅框框起來),依美規尺碼男生穿6號,一般平均腳寛88.9mm,而女生則穿7號,腳寛則87.4mm,腳寛相差1.5mm(注意:腳長愈長腳寛差距會相差愈多)。<br />
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那有人就會質疑?那女生穿男生的應該就不會有問題,寛楦不是比較舒服嗎?記得我們前面比較過腳型,不只僅腳寛問題。<br />
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想想腳寛是指骨和中足骨接合的位置(網誌曾介紹:<span style="color: #383838; font-family: "lato" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/04/shoe-last.html" target="_blank">腳和鞋楦的關係</a>)</span>,我們走路時腳掌活動最多地方就是這處,太緊壓迫,摩擦摩擦傷痛就跟著來,久了就變形,很多姆指外翻情況就是穿不對的鞋子。反之,太鬆也不行,試想腳在鞋子裡滑動,走久了產生腳底摩擦,也造成腳受傷。<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmdOQCwZwAZJHGc0Yl5BMs7yJu2Zkkn9H_nAUlQZ1gB7EGA0qXMunY2sPWPc426RZNUjOzshD3k03CcyccjfseeExXb9TVpdqLYuNz_9seyJ_uMgU6F_yJ010VxKTQM8yJR4BuGWfjUk/s1600/%25E5%25B0%25BA%25E7%25A2%25BC%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%25AF%259B%25E6%25AF%2594%25E8%25BC%2583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="616" data-original-width="697" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmdOQCwZwAZJHGc0Yl5BMs7yJu2Zkkn9H_nAUlQZ1gB7EGA0qXMunY2sPWPc426RZNUjOzshD3k03CcyccjfseeExXb9TVpdqLYuNz_9seyJ_uMgU6F_yJ010VxKTQM8yJR4BuGWfjUk/s640/%25E5%25B0%25BA%25E7%25A2%25BC%25E8%2585%25B3%25E5%25AF%259B%25E6%25AF%2594%25E8%25BC%2583.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16px;">男鞋和女鞋除了在外觀和款式設計上的不同外,鞋子的內部結構和材質也會有些不太一樣,譬如體重的考量,走路時,男生體重較重,所以鞋子的大底就要做得比較厚,像女生穿的平底芭蕾舞鞋的鞋底較薄,換做男生穿那很快鞋底就磨平了。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">男鞋和女鞋的比較</span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-JHNor9C1OJmynZY0KMmPBPkT-neSaHtHwmw3S6EgicGl0OXPadIS4BabQ5UTycjshQwe0y5UhuJzVqCysucu9qFfBc72VWCJr1hZn2Gs6r921QXnYQtA4j76XII04zwRnd1_T1BY-E/s1600/%25E7%2594%25B7%25E5%25A5%25B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-JHNor9C1OJmynZY0KMmPBPkT-neSaHtHwmw3S6EgicGl0OXPadIS4BabQ5UTycjshQwe0y5UhuJzVqCysucu9qFfBc72VWCJr1hZn2Gs6r921QXnYQtA4j76XII04zwRnd1_T1BY-E/s640/%25E7%2594%25B7%25E5%25A5%25B3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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知道男生的腳和生女的結構不同延伸到男女鞋的設計製作,希望在對自己在選購皮鞋上更了解,如果選擇市面上成鞋就一定要試穿,除了長度夠之外也要注意腳寛和腳背,當然也不能對這些已經做好的成鞋要求要完完全全符合自己的腳,必竟它不是你的量腳訂製鞋。<br />
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想對訂製鞋更多認識,請至文章 <span style="color: #383838; font-family: "lato" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2016/09/1.html" target="_blank">客製化訂製鞋 (訂做鞋) </a></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-91236345009214857312017-05-19T19:53:00.003+08:002017-05-27T16:41:47.330+08:00如何選購樂福鞋?哪種合適?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.botas.tw/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6fsWpHcIqz4BdbBHSQTbm6qviZ_gTkr6zuRt3klLg62eJJWI66cWBZ3pF6NKH2n9mM29haC07NX3G6wwQzNrVu_PHuPRY9fLsrnZPKeF6POPdR2_K0i1E8ETegroc2f3RxSOTBQKkTY/s640/botas+loafers++%25E9%25A6%25AC%25E9%259D%25B4%25E4%25B8%2596%25E5%25AE%25B6%25E6%25A8%2582%25E7%25A6%258F%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">上班前當您猶豫不知道穿什麼鞋或上班時間來不及,這時樂福鞋就是最佳選擇。老實説,雖然樂福鞋的舒適性比運動鞋略遜一籌,但它的穿脫便利確相當貼近生活,像在日本因而樂福鞋的簡便機能性受銀髮族或高齡族群喜愛;隨著時代變化,樂福鞋的設計更多樣與年輕化,無論是辦公室或工作場所都合適。</span></div>
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但😅......那麼多類型樂福鞋哪種合適?物品經歷長久時間考驗(淘汰、選擇)才能成為經典,現在來說說幾款樂福鞋的發展故事和差別,認識它之後會或許心裡就有想法才能做出最對的選擇。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">便士樂福鞋</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14.0pt;">(Penny Loafers)<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">1934年,G.H. Bass位於美國緬因州威爾頓的靴子製造商,開始製造樂福鞋命名"維京Weejuns"(發音聽起來像挪威人Nor-wegians)以區別它們與保爾丁樂福鞋Paulding loafers的不同,維京鞋的設計是有條狀的皮帶像馬鞍橫座於鞋子上,並在該皮帶上刻像鑽石形狀的切口。剛開始,只是夏天在家中穿著的便鞋,很快的在美國成為大受歡迎休閒鞋款。</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKV2PWnMJhg3sbdCyebg5Vi5DYdyIuh5RFZmt8z8PMwft6DlBs2J17gteXa0v4kN-T6-xCkdApbumO0Js0-FeuUQq7NkEW5CN-Ug81rSGykmzh-Aa3bwF2WAGOlS4E-Q0FBcZ2JvkNbI/s1600/GH+bass+WEEJUNS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKV2PWnMJhg3sbdCyebg5Vi5DYdyIuh5RFZmt8z8PMwft6DlBs2J17gteXa0v4kN-T6-xCkdApbumO0Js0-FeuUQq7NkEW5CN-Ug81rSGykmzh-Aa3bwF2WAGOlS4E-Q0FBcZ2JvkNbI/s320/GH+bass+WEEJUNS.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">G.H. Bass的維京鞋</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">那為什麼叫便士樂福鞋</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Penny loafers"?</span><span class="apple-converted-space" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: , serif;">在30年代,兩個便士penny銅板剛好可以放在維京鞋的馬鞍狹縫裡,可以用來打緊急電話用。從此,便士樂福鞋名字被定住了。G.H. Bass的便士樂福鞋成為經典代表。想想當時如果像現在每人手上都有手機用不到銅板,應該就不會有這名稱了吧!XD</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://botas.meepshop.com/product/58aac3ccbab4972471000001/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaoZLg9R6P8srLqPr6vhv6yaZGrQticC7Gf8eTdMw42KC76qik4MzwXKHbIFnctGYj2zzMpwVnuRVgNBWgkDbdhVSjAYe39iUOKNMNxm0-Zbk5wnQ8a87uAqOo7YLVSFjjVoGF9j8AwfQ/s320/Botas+penny+loafer.jpg" width="278" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: , serif;">另一個說法,在50年代的美國學生,為了創造時尚話題,把一分錢銅板插入他們的維京鞋(Weejuns)的鑽石造型狹縫,於是創造了便士樂福鞋這名詞。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">從名人紳士的穿著可以看出當時流行趨勢或者他們的穿著舉止在引領流行,在1930年代,英國溫沙公爵是便士樂福鞋最大愛好者,他總是穿著西裝搭配咖啡與白色相間的樂福鞋,可證當時便士樂福鞋的受喜愛的程度。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">馬銜鍊樂福鞋</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14.0pt;">(Horse bit loafers or The Gu<span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">cci loafer)</span><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">20世紀60年代的樂福鞋在美國快速成長,但在歐洲並没有像美國那樣風行,只有義大利比歐洲其他地區稍微普遍些,原因是歐洲人認為這種風格的鞋子屬休閒鞋,不合適大都會,但古馳Gucci公司注意到樂福鞋正人氣高漲。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1953年,設計師阿爾多古馳Aldo Gucci(古馳創辦人的兒子)將樂福鞋做了些改變,他設計了一個形狀像馬銜鍊的金屬銅飾取代了便士樂福鞋鑽石型皮帶,這金屬馬銜鍊造型就像馬鞍橫座於鞋子上再搭配黑色皮革,讓樂福鞋感覺更正式,黑色顏色正好與西裝相稱,改變之前樂福鞋通常是棕色和休閒思維,因此,被命名為Gucci Loafer成為專有款式,並推向歐洲和全球市場,這樣的氣勢延續到70年代為許多商業人士和華爾街上班族的青睞。</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQ6F2KSyQVuhg_GDJ5OqRj2E3QWkLiZXuCBauApgpr6N4qhEoVPy2zl9q1vpVXS03yekr-al6FfWZMGySN9Pc5SiO8Euo4kLk46_Oh62u85lQI7xUuO80A4vlSg3emiDJ2CutBfBpH4g/s1600/snaffle-bit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQ6F2KSyQVuhg_GDJ5OqRj2E3QWkLiZXuCBauApgpr6N4qhEoVPy2zl9q1vpVXS03yekr-al6FfWZMGySN9Pc5SiO8Euo4kLk46_Oh62u85lQI7xUuO80A4vlSg3emiDJ2CutBfBpH4g/s320/snaffle-bit.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">左圖: Horse bit 馬銜鍊; 右圖: 古馳樂福鞋</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">樂福鞋用多樣馬銜鍊飾品</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">古馳Gucci維持Gucci loafer原有馬銜鍊結構,並發揚光大運用各種新材料、顏色和紋理產出更多樣和時尚感。現在説到馬銜鍊樂福鞋大部份第一個浮出腦海就是古馳Gucci樂福鞋,它已經成為馬銜鍊樂福鞋bit loafers=古馳樂福鞋Gucci loafers,就像我們現在説"goole"意思就是"搜尋"的道理一樣。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background: white;">從這件事得到一個啟發,生活裡對周遭事物多些觀察,或許哪天我們也可以將一些認為理所當然的事物變成創意呢?Gucci Loafer就是一個活生生的例子。創意無所不在。<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: 14pt;">比利時樂福鞋</span></b><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;">(The Belgian loafer)<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOtae1J4DATLMzBl45NTqIGwMPOnKsOcOz7SLivpgl3k5CsAb2G-oOAX-tHWbwkwp6bx5hBHjJcJ9ZvPYipIDUicOi5RDoX-L5pr9umbNeJYT4PVkAn8XAsaQ8rARhclvh1Bcid7uYPQ/s1600/natural-brown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOtae1J4DATLMzBl45NTqIGwMPOnKsOcOz7SLivpgl3k5CsAb2G-oOAX-tHWbwkwp6bx5hBHjJcJ9ZvPYipIDUicOi5RDoX-L5pr9umbNeJYT4PVkAn8XAsaQ8rARhclvh1Bcid7uYPQ/s320/natural-brown.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">比利時樂福鞋</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">說到比利時第一個念頭是"巧克力"和"尿尿小童",鮮少人注意到比利時樂福鞋,事實上,它的發展也有幾十年的歷史。</span></div>
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</span>它的起源是在1954年代,亨利.本德爾Henri Bendel在樂福鞋上面設計一個小巧蝴蝶結,讓樂福鞋更顯低調優雅,於是,本德爾Bendel直接在他買下的具有300年歷史之久的比利時鞋廠生產,請鞋匠使用細緻的工法inside-out製作他所設計的樂福鞋。這手法是將鞋子內先縫合,然後完成後翻轉,確保每個針跡完美。</div>
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</span>本德爾因此曾經整救了比利時的製鞋工業,因而為他贏得二次比利時騎士身份的榮譽。</div>
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在60年代,樂福鞋這類的便鞋以舒適和經典為主,但慢慢也褪流行,儘管受歡迎程度的下降,本德爾的公司當時把它們的設計命名為比利時樂福鞋Belgian Loafers,經歷了60多年仍保持相同的工藝和生產技術,確保自己產品的品質。</div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-size: 12pt;">比利時樂福鞋主要特徵就是 1.) 鞋面上端小蝴蝶結和 2.) 採用特殊的皮革等材質,譬如:鱷魚紋、牛巴哥、豹紋、編織....等。</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNPnSl2acumBiptl22A22mOXFP2xfLdiQcP9BUlN7yv1HG5_rTRLKtTManu0RzfANM94IHRntiuIcHeOvPaNkgcgyjaEG0LpeogkiKXfs9uDY-kg7DPrJNp4N3r6AOZFD4T0Ph3HfaT00/s1600/belgain+loafers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNPnSl2acumBiptl22A22mOXFP2xfLdiQcP9BUlN7yv1HG5_rTRLKtTManu0RzfANM94IHRntiuIcHeOvPaNkgcgyjaEG0LpeogkiKXfs9uDY-kg7DPrJNp4N3r6AOZFD4T0Ph3HfaT00/s320/belgain+loafers.jpg" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">蝴蝶結改變設計的比利時樂福鞋(女鞋)</span></span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://botas.meepshop.com/product/58abe465524bfdd37e000006/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMVDtH8x8TGcrp5-LSgvl1fR1Bbjcl7uVH_BBFUgqlx1Uy3XkJtU8zy06pFRtPne4cVrgq1PgiwD5gR0A2hn8DunGS4ANQho5g9tQAERieheVkHTmPxPKcfuSYuF-Z_tXXmV54iOPOm7A/s400/tassel+loafer%25E6%25B5%2581%25E8%2598%2587%25E6%25A8%2582%25E7%25A6%258F%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">於第二次世界大戰結束後,美國電影演員保羅·盧卡斯Paul Lukas在歐洲購買了一雙牛津鞋,該鞋的鞋帶末端繄著流蘇。回到美國後,他帶著這雙牛津鞋到紐約的鞋匠Farkas&Kovacs,請他們做一雙類似鞋款,但盧卡斯Lukas並不滿意做出來的結果,之後,他帶到紐約給勒菲爾多Lefcourt和比佛利山的莫里斯Morris這兩個鞋商看。從此事情就發生了改變,他們將鞋子送到馬薩諸塞州的阿爾登Alden鞋業,當時的阿爾登公司負責人”阿瑟·塔洛Arthur Tarlow"利用便鞋slip-on 做了些改造,保有鞋帶造型和流蘇的裝飾,盧卡斯Lukas非常滿意這新款鞋。</span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: , "serif";">阿爾登公司意識到這鞋子在市場的發展潛力,維持流蘇的設計,持續測試改良,約一年時間,終於1950年透過勒菲爾多Lefcourt和莫里斯Morris商店通路推出流蘇樂福鞋Tassel loafers,成功立足於市場上。到了1952年阿爾登Alden公司運用多種皮革和顏色來製造流蘇樂福鞋。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: , "serif";">在1957年,布魯克斯兄弟Brooks Brother (現在美國最老字號服飾品牌之一)開始與阿爾登Alden鞋業接觸合作,並請為他們特別設計一系列的樂福鞋。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">從那時起,流蘇樂福鞋的自由、輕鬆和優雅的風格已成為標誌,並具有無與倫比的多功能性,在會議室、鄉村俱樂部和舞池中都會發現它的蹤影。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: , serif;">選什麼款式好呢?</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: , serif;">仍然在猶豫嗎?我們建議或許可以提供些選擇的幫助。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: , serif;">首先,<b><span style="color: red;">皮革</span></b>決定鞋子的正式與否。</span><span style="color: #38761d;">麂皮(牛反毛)</span>因為絨感有些慵懶的表現,比較有休閒感。如果要穿著在正式場合,那要選擇比較<span style="color: #38761d;">光面或油腊質感</span>較硬挺的皮革。<span style="color: #38761d;">壓紋皮</span>像仿鹿紋、鱷魚紋、蛇紋....等在皮革上模壓動物紋或植物紋路就適合比利時樂福鞋,喜歡動物紋皮革者比利時樂福鞋正好符合您的需要。</div>
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<span style="font-family: , serif;">馬銜鍊樂福鞋上面有個金屬釦是一個亮點,</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">為吸引</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">目光,</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">皮革顏色大都以黑色或深棕色為主,經常</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">穿著商務套裝,可以選擇油腊或亮面皮革的馬銜鍊樂福鞋。</span></div>
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便士樂福鞋是最普遍的便鞋款,它搭配牛仔褲、絨質褲子或卡其褲都好看,簡單俐落。<br />
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<span style="font-family: , serif;">流蘇樂福鞋因為流蘇的關係讓人感覺活潑不是那麼正式嚴肅,如果鞋櫃裡想要添加像不一樣的鞋款,流蘇樂福鞋是個不錯的選擇。</span><br />
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穿樂福鞋需不需穿襪子?</h3>
穿不穿襪子純屬個人徧好和習慣,但不建議穿厚襪。穿樂福鞋如果搭配薄襪可增加視覺吸引力而且屬較正式穿法。當然,天氣和場合也會影響您穿不穿襪子。<br />
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現在對樂福鞋是不是有更多的認識?</div>
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下一篇:<a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/05/menshoes-vs-womenshoes.html" target="_blank">男鞋與女鞋各不同 Differences in men's and women's leather shoes</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-23338637710900175122017-05-03T17:08:00.001+08:002017-05-27T16:40:32.046+08:00什麼是樂福鞋 What are Loafers?<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<b><span style="color: #274e13; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">隨興但不隨便的樂福鞋 Loafer Shoes</span></b></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">樂福鞋是具時尚感又輕鬆隨意的鞋款,穿著季節性又長,無論男女都喜愛,連麥可傑克森Michael Jackson的表演也穿著樂福鞋;樂福鞋不用繫鞋帶,穿脫方便,屬於便鞋(slip-ons)的一種,在便鞋系列:開車鞋Driver shoes、莫卡辛鞋Moccasins、樂福鞋Loafers、帆船鞋Boat shoes...之中,樂福鞋是屬於比較正式,這是因為樂福鞋大都使用真皮製造,甚至是皮革鞋底和鞋跟等材料因素使樂福鞋偏向適合在辦公室或工作場所的場合穿著。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">選購一雙樂福鞋除了簡單、方便和實穿外,還應該考量質感,好的品質不謹意味著耐用與舒適,更襯托出鞋子精緻與穿著者的個性和品味。</span></div>
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</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">問問自己對樂福鞋(loafers)認識多少?圖片裡的鞋子都是樂福鞋?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi2Eh9odegUH2Y2IyR3bhgHrb3LJSGCkzLr3_sXXuwyF-_CAGFXtFDMuucSELoHLbWq6hDELk75AnLOTCH35prdQ_I2m3qGGLNNlJk5NeF3z34Zt0Q-q5eAjSGPrb9Vp1rA0mfZd_aaZY/s1600/Botas+slippers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi2Eh9odegUH2Y2IyR3bhgHrb3LJSGCkzLr3_sXXuwyF-_CAGFXtFDMuucSELoHLbWq6hDELk75AnLOTCH35prdQ_I2m3qGGLNNlJk5NeF3z34Zt0Q-q5eAjSGPrb9Vp1rA0mfZd_aaZY/s400/Botas+slippers.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">樂福鞋的特徵:</span></h3>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">無鞋帶(最明顯特徵),不用鞋帶來調整穿著牢固度,腳輕易直接套上鞋子。</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">低鞋口,腳踝外露,不會緊貼在腳踝周圍。</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">鞋面上會有像莫卡辛moccasin-like(鞋頭U字型縫線)的結構。</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">低鞋跟(但高跟女樂福鞋除外)。</span></li>
</ul>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02eCyKqKZfsbkYh2FIeIGHbQxgnPBQ6FPnGUEKZIUUA6UEGMV1kmKJ6sXKTqnpUsOkSoj0-Fv-oMXBLMQNoHiDicwSE_id2aw7L6H792vo_w4al16_Y43lckxunSKL46tYYKjU2OYq6o/s1600/moccasin+and+loafer+-+Botas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="504" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02eCyKqKZfsbkYh2FIeIGHbQxgnPBQ6FPnGUEKZIUUA6UEGMV1kmKJ6sXKTqnpUsOkSoj0-Fv-oMXBLMQNoHiDicwSE_id2aw7L6H792vo_w4al16_Y43lckxunSKL46tYYKjU2OYq6o/s640/moccasin+and+loafer+-+Botas.jpg" width="640" /></span></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAd57ZF7e1x3mywgd6jvmZ8GsxctMQOOMNjYq8EO68cFPKeHLGB4yWgOugaSMlHx8F4pGUA8Xer-q3tYZMBDP8jNZwvZ6tEHK5vW_NMTvpYf6iXfVAZ_0D30ZM8Crvz5r8RxkSKAGL8Jg/s1600/Botas+high+heel+loafer+women.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAd57ZF7e1x3mywgd6jvmZ8GsxctMQOOMNjYq8EO68cFPKeHLGB4yWgOugaSMlHx8F4pGUA8Xer-q3tYZMBDP8jNZwvZ6tEHK5vW_NMTvpYf6iXfVAZ_0D30ZM8Crvz5r8RxkSKAGL8Jg/s320/Botas+high+heel+loafer+women.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #38761d;">答案揭曉:</span></span> 像莫卡辛結構(鞋頭U字型縫線)是屬樂福鞋,鞋表面素素的那款是屬便鞋(Slip on shoes)。對了嗎? 其實也没那麼嚴厲,或許goole 樂福鞋也會出現素面那款,因為它符合樂福鞋其他特徵只是没有U型縫線結構。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">説到樂福鞋,它和莫卡辛鞋Moccasins還有些淵源呢!它的設計構想是來自莫卡辛鞋這種軟皮鞋,造成樂福鞋和莫卡辛鞋有很多相似之處因而讓人混淆,透過歷史來認識樂福鞋的由來!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">樂福鞋的歷史</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">樂福鞋的起源有很多種傳說,查了維基百科以這兩個故事各為起源。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>其一、</i></span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 16pt;"> 為挪威奧蘭德(Aurland, Norway)的修理鞋匠"尼爾斯.蒂弗藍杰</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 16pt;">Nils </span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 21.3333px;">Tveranger</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 18pt;">在1930年左右設計一款名為"奧蘭德</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 24px;">軟皮鞋</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 18pt;">Aurland moccains”,後來改名為“奧蘭德鞋Aurland Shoes”。這種鞋子的設計類似於挪威人穿的軟皮鞋Norwegian Teseskoen。</span></span></div>
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</span> <span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 16pt;"> 隨後,挪威人開始將該鞋出口到歐洲其他地區,因而引起美國人注意,在美國“Esquire”雜誌拍攝的照片中有挪威農民穿著這種簡單鞋子在牛活動區域(loafing area)工作被發掘而熱門。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="color: #212121; text-indent: 16pt;">於是,美國新罕布什爾州(New Hampshire, USA)的斯堡羅丁Spaulding家族在30年代初開始使用這種設計製作鞋子,並引用他們命名為樂福鞋Loafer,這發生大約在1930年左右,有專家認為,美國人早已穿著類似此風格的鞋子,被廣泛接受的説法是</span></span><span style="font-family: , serif;">「</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 16pt;">鞋匠"尼爾斯.蒂弗藍杰Nils Tveranger"於13-20歳時在北美學習製鞋,30歲返回挪威設計了混合傳統的美洲原住民鞋和挪威鞋因而演變而來的</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">」</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 16pt;">。</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtDuWNUQ1i2A4UkhMczC4IJh5Z5yFBO-yZgjYO0qwr6jyPZYnzErHCtSJX2K045c-bJgUg60Y2_KntDEJ1jCaVtqSj1GDFeg-mNqPQefyDUCat08Njoq39lkG-EMEmK4Lxvjalet89auY/s1600/Aurland+shoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtDuWNUQ1i2A4UkhMczC4IJh5Z5yFBO-yZgjYO0qwr6jyPZYnzErHCtSJX2K045c-bJgUg60Y2_KntDEJ1jCaVtqSj1GDFeg-mNqPQefyDUCat08Njoq39lkG-EMEmK4Lxvjalet89auY/s400/Aurland+shoes.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">奧蘭德樂福鞋</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 16pt;"><i> 其二、</i>在1847年,"馬修Mattew"和"莉貝卡.懷爾德史密斯Rebecca Wildsmith"以“懷爾德史密斯Wildsmith Shoes”的名義在倫敦建立了一家製鞋業務。 </span><br />
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</span> <span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-indent: 16pt;">在1926年,他們的孫子"雷蒙.懷爾德史密Raymond Lewis Wildsmith"受英王喬治六世King George VI委託,製作適合在鄉間別墅和射擊場穿的室內便鞋。"雷蒙Raymond"設計了低跟、没有鞋帶、方便穿脫的鞋子。這種鞋子的構造與軟皮鞋moccasin有很多共同之處,很快就在市面上銷售,最初被稱為582;後來改型號為98。 </span><br />
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</span>懷爾德史密斯Wildsmith shoes最具代表鞋款樂福鞋Loafer,為倫敦首次出現的便鞋,雖然當初是設計用於室內穿著,屬休閒時尚,但很快就被大眾接受,並開始作為戶外穿著的休閒選擇。</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMCkyR_ecY44mujkrXlkGNTEkoGGGnevmpNepUZtbZwDuh_kEWyDpPne7_umkVbGunpAGriVb8a4xVVINrHLWHY17-sHz-5nd6vS2-xJ5xCLU47RpauJ3ZMPOJC2MmLpwXTvAV385a2CA/s1600/Edward+Green+Wildsmith+Penny+Loafer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMCkyR_ecY44mujkrXlkGNTEkoGGGnevmpNepUZtbZwDuh_kEWyDpPne7_umkVbGunpAGriVb8a4xVVINrHLWHY17-sHz-5nd6vS2-xJ5xCLU47RpauJ3ZMPOJC2MmLpwXTvAV385a2CA/s320/Edward+Green+Wildsmith+Penny+Loafer.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">懐爾德史密斯樂福鞋</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: "arial" sans-serif; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">由這二個樂福鞋的發展歴史故事,認識"懷爾德史密斯Wildsmith"和"奧蘭德Aurland"這二個老品牌,但這二個老字號都曾面臨經營上的困難,挪威的製鞋工業跟台灣鞋業一樣由於市場的變化,傳統製鞋工藝低迷,今天奧蘭德Aurland shoesmaker這品牌在奧蘭德Aurland成為碩果僅存的鞋廠。很可惜!另一個百年的懷爾史密斯Wildsmith則於2013年被成衣商 Cad&The Dandy買下這個品牌。</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 18px; white-space: pre-wrap;">樂福鞋種類:</span></h3>
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<li>流蘇樂福鞋(Tassel loafer)</li>
<li>便士樂福鞋(Penny loafer)</li>
<li>馬銜鍊樂福鞋(Horsebit loafer or <span style="color: #212121;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">Gucci loafer)</span></span></li>
<li>比利時樂福鞋(Belgian loafer)</li>
</ul>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; white-space: pre-wrap;">雖然,樂福鞋真正發展的時間不像牛津鞋那麼久,但它的實穿與便利性已經成為每人鞋櫃裡必備的鞋款,發展至今它的設計款式與皮革變化也愈來愈多樣,這個鞋子的受歡迎程度將持續不斷,,那要選擇哪一種才適合呢?流蘇? 或者簡單風格的便士?</span><br />
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</span></span> <span style="color: #212121;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><span style="color: #134f5c;">下一篇文章將介紹"<a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/05/guide-to-buy-loafers.html" target="_blank">樂福鞋的種類以及如何選購樂福鞋…</a>"</span></b><span style="color: #212121; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/04/shoe-last-2.html" target="_blank">上一篇: 鞋子的舒適,從鞋楦shoe last做起(二.鞋楦如何影響穿著?)</a></span></h1>
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</span><span style="color: #212121;"> </span></span></span> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-62148422251144087952017-04-26T18:56:00.000+08:002017-05-22T22:05:22.459+08:00鞋子的舒適,從鞋楦shoe last做起(二.鞋楦如何影響穿著?)<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br />
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</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">創造一雙鞋,第一步一定要有楦頭, 我們從設計開發到生產這麼十多年經歷,花最多時間和心力就是在楦頭上,楦頭除了要符合人體工學(決定穿著舒適),還關係鞋的造型美學,不同類型的鞋子,鞋楦頭也跟著不同,例如: 男生紳士皮鞋鞋楦和休閒鞋楦差別就相當大,女生的跟鞋光是鞋跟高度鞋楦就不同了。每個尺碼楦頭的點、曲線和</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">線都有標準數據可依照,來看看下圖的簡化工程圖,標示35個量測點,是不是很複雜?看了眼花撩亂,讓人頭痛</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">幸運的是...這些高深技術學問倚賴經驗豐富的專家(師傅)和電腦設備處理,另外一點,楦頭是給鞋廠生產用的,一般人</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">不需要全部了解 ,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">但要知道楦頭考量是鞋子內容量與體積(foot girth)</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">。</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">那麼來認識 </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 20px;">鞋楦(shoe last)幾個基本主要量測點(points & girths):</span></h2>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 18px;">一、 楦頭主要7個量測點</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 18px;">:</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 18px;">以<span style="background-color: black;">男士皮鞋鞋楦</span></span><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 18px;">示範</span></td></tr>
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<b style="color: #777777; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">1. 長度 (Insole length and Stick length):</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"> 楦頭的長度(Insole length)並不是代表腳的長度,在上一篇我們提到過,楦頭長度會比腳長,這個長度只是關係到鞋設計和生產,這和人的腳長不一樣。除了楦底的長度,還有楦全長(Stick length)即鞋楦總長,楦全長度與鞋頭形狀、鞋頭翹度和後跟高度相關,當後跟高度越高長度就變短。</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">量楦頭: 左圖為楦底長度,右圖為楦全長</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><b>2. 寛度 (Last width):</b> 這是楦頭底部最寛的直線長度,即我們腳底最寬的地方長度。</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAS6AWCrDlA8vGz8RKOiTzF50dknfO3L2LiT8QD7YdnJnyQgzVWqGEuxrkT_shyphenhyphenEEV_vS2jGbf6feUabY9NiAufB85A85h6l4zFDPkmOzhoTIkyuxKDB3bHtM9Lo73jb1-7KYufBM34x4/s1600/shoe+last+%25E6%25A5%25A6%25E5%25AF%259B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAS6AWCrDlA8vGz8RKOiTzF50dknfO3L2LiT8QD7YdnJnyQgzVWqGEuxrkT_shyphenhyphenEEV_vS2jGbf6feUabY9NiAufB85A85h6l4zFDPkmOzhoTIkyuxKDB3bHtM9Lo73jb1-7KYufBM34x4/s320/shoe+last+%25E6%25A5%25A6%25E5%25AF%259B.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">量鞋楦寬度</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><b>3. 趾圍 (Ball girth):</b> 為楦頭內外最突點繞一圈即為趾圍,趾圍決定楦頭腳掌的最寬位置的容量,這最關注到穿著的舒適,姆指外翻就是在這位置,訂做鞋時趾圍是必量。</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><b>4. 腰圍 (Waist girth): </b>以趾圍與楦頭正面中心線交叉點往上約30mm距離,平行線繞一圈即為腰圍,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">隨著後跟高度"</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">腰圍和背圍"</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">會稍微瘦些</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">。</span></div>
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<span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 15px;"><b>5. 背圍 (Instep girth):</b> </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">以腰圍與楦頭中心線交叉點往上約30mm距離,平行線繞一圈即為背圍,這對應到就是我們量腳背的位置,做深口鞋時,這個地方這需要測量。</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">趾圍、腰圍和背圍這三點是「</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">生死門」</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">,為什麼?想想你是否曾經穿過的鞋子腳往前衝、腳趾頭碰到鞋頭、後踵會掉腳,這些情況有可能是因為這三圍的肥度太肥以致於產生穿著問題,或者明明是我的尺碼,但腳背很緊等等問題,因此這三點是非常重要。</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><b>6. 翹度 (Toe spring):</b> 是鞋楦腳趾位置的仰角,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">使走路時,鞋頭與鞋跟有前後“搖擺”效果,翹度作用是補償鞋底剛硬性,避免腳趾處於背屈姿勢,使得步行困難。翹度數值依鞋子用途類型些許不同</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">,一般皮鞋的翹度差不多在腳趾頭的位置大約一隻筆的高度, 但還是取決於鞋款、鞋底厚度和鞋跟高度,譬如比較薄底和軟底的平底芭蕾鞋翹度幾乎没有。</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">皮鞋的翹度約1支筆直徑</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">平底赫本鞋鞋頭低翹度</span></span></td></tr>
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</b></span> 7. 後跟高度 (Heel height):</b> 翹度(Toe spring)、</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">著地點(Tread point)和後跟高度,這三點決定穿著平衡</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">會不會往後仰或前傾</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">,一般而言當後跟高度越高鞋頭翹度就越低。</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 15px;">著地點是楦底表面支撐點,我們走路時第一個接觸地面的點。以平底鞋/低跟這個著地點的位置大約是在鞋楦最寛位置前面5mm左右範圍與楦頭中心點交叉的點,有些師傅會拿楦頭底部在地上磨磨,與地面磨擦那點就是著地點,這方式應該算是比較快速土法找著地點約位置;實際上它是有數據的,例如: 男鞋尺碼8,由後跟往前180cm處與楦頭中心線交叉點再減5-10mm範圍就是著地點。</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"><b>其他參考量測點: </b></span></span><br />
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<li><span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">趾厚度 (Toe thickness): 顧名思義就是腳趾的厚度,每個尺碼有固定厚度空間,關係腳趾頭是否產生壓迫?特別是姆指位置。</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">後跟圍 (Back length): 從背圍與鞋楦正面中心點交叉位置繞到楦頭後跟底端繞回起點即為後跟圍,這關係鞋口下腳容易與否?通常便鞋、樂福鞋與馬靴會重視到後跟圍。</span></li>
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<span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span> <span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">這麼多的東西是不是看了頭昏眼花?要堅持住! 還没完呢。但我想先換個不同主題輕鬆些,下篇文章將介紹穿脫方便的懶人鞋</span><span style="color: blue; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"樂福鞋"</span><span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">。</span><br />
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上篇文章: </span><br />
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<span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <span style="font-size: 18px;"><a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/04/shoe-last.html" target="_blank">鞋子的舒適,從鞋楦shoe last做起(一. 腳和鞋楦的關係)</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #777777; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">下篇文章:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/05/loafers.html" target="_blank">什麼是樂福鞋 What are Loafers?<b style="border: 0px; color: #777777; font-family: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="border: 0px; color: #274e13; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">隨興但不隨便的樂福鞋</span></b></a></span></h1>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-76090044963530669362017-04-20T19:27:00.000+08:002017-05-03T11:35:24.529+08:00鞋子的舒適,從鞋楦shoe last做起(一. 腳和鞋楦的關係)<h2>
Why? 鞋楦很重要,是鞋子的靈魂.</h2>
你可能知道楦頭很重要,是鞋子的靈魂。為什麼呢? 楦頭這門學問大嗎?複雜嗎?和鞋子、腳有什麼樣的相關性?<br />
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">母楦(prototype)量測核對每個點(points)是不是符合標準數據</span><br />
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我常認為"術業有專攻",在講求快速時代本來就是靠分工"各司其職",很難樣樣都要專精,但還是要懂一些原理才有辧法把事情"圓滿"完成。</div>
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話說回來,每個人腳骨有26塊,結構一樣,但因為孩童發展時期走路姿勢和所穿鞋子的關係造成腳型變化,所以每個人的腳型都長的些許不同,即使雙胞胎的腳也是長的不同,同個使用人(自己😊)的左右腳都不完全一樣。楦頭則是依據人腳的骨骼結構和腳型,應用大數據統計,產生最合適大部份人腳的尺寸的腳模,所以我常跟客戶強調市售量產成鞋(不是量腳訂做的),大約只能符合60-70%的人穿,約1/3會有穿著上的問題。<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">人體腳骨的結構</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">難以避免,店家試鞋的人都OK !但賣給消者就出現些問題,客戶還告訴我不是只有一個消費者反應,想想三個人就有一人會不合腳的比率其實還滿高的,如果真的要求穿著舒適,不會"那裡卡卡,這裡卡卡" 還是要選擇訂做鞋,雖然量腳很麻煩,之後還要時間的等待,但這些付出能夠有一雙專屬於自己腳型的皮鞋,能夠提供對足部適當呵護和提高走路時的舒適性,應是值得</span>。<br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">現在來了解腳和楦頭的關係;從圖片可以看出楦頭的容量是固定的,是死的,萬一腳長或腳寬大於楦頭標準尺寸,那就要依腳型與楦頭差距判斷選擇做新鞋楦或只須修改楦頭。</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">圖片裡</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">腳趾頭前面穿不到</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">的空間位置(稱放余量):一方面是做造型,譬如尖頭(越尖頭放余量越大)、方頭...。另一方面是預留一些空間避免在行走或活動時腳趾頭去頂到鞋頭,還有因為氣候的因素腳會熱脹冷縮,因而造成不舒服甚至腳趾磨傷。</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">依腳型修補後的鞋楦,是不是看起來和腳型比較符合</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: left;">這看似簡單的楦頭修補,可不是那種"頭痛醫頭,腳痛醫腳" 喔! 還是要依照人體骨骼、走路原理和鞋楦理論來的,不然做出來的鞋子不見得舒適還可能會走樣,美感不在,必竟這和醫療鞋是不同的。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">接下來下篇文章 <span style="color: blue;">鞋子的舒適,從鞋楦做起(二)</span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">,將聚焦在鞋楦幾個主要量測點(points),及如何影響穿著。</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-14264324703647535952017-04-11T19:54:00.001+08:002017-05-03T11:37:04.681+08:00手工鞋就是訂製鞋? Custom Handmade Shoes<h2>
做(賣)手工鞋不一定可以接受訂做</h2>
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<span style="color: red;">請問訂做鞋要多少錢?貴不貴?</span> 這是想訂製鞋的人最常問的問題。</div>
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首先,想問的是"你要訂做什麼樣的鞋"? 你有沒有想過1,000元鞋子和那些花費10,000元以上的鞋子之間有什麼區別?</div>
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雖然,皮料和材料品質,品牌知名度和產地等都是因素外,但最大的區別就是手作工藝質量。</div>
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後面會談到,因為機器設備輔助的關係和材料供應進步,手工鞋可以量產後,尺碼規格都標準化,因此,手工鞋價格也就不再那麼昂貴,師傅工藝的價值也不再那麼被看重,導致太過煩瑣的訂製鞋的工作都不願再碰觸,所以很多鞋廠因為師傅的關係和過程複雜的困難而不願接受訂製鞋,相對地,下訂單給手工鞋廠的賣家(鞋店)因為這樣的因素,而無法提供給消費者訂製鞋服務。</div>
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<span style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="font-size: large;">先來談談,訂製的主要流程</span><span style="font-size: small;">:</span></span></h3>
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量腳後~</div>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">1.) 從</span><span style="color: blue;">楦頭</span><span style="font-weight: normal;">開始,就必需要符合訂製者的尺寸和腳型來做楦頭的修改,改楦頭就是一項難度,因為它取決穿著舒適和合不合腳,還要顧慮做出來的鞋子樣式不能走味,大多數的鞋廠師傅很少會修改楦頭(一點點貼貼補補還是會),碰到楦頭問題還是要找專業楦頭店處理解決,這是一項麻煩。</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9iMdfK6XGqdVAVssWcDbk2U_nXREvUmtdb30e1rK6EjXE3ueDF8oc3LZU3AWrK17dcT4ysSyugHIFPNknIxaXYya5QexpKyzimQzyY6TrrFTCGrFR7AQ44fw07wMy_FAQbWgOmGCGRI/s1600/IMG_5367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9iMdfK6XGqdVAVssWcDbk2U_nXREvUmtdb30e1rK6EjXE3ueDF8oc3LZU3AWrK17dcT4ysSyugHIFPNknIxaXYya5QexpKyzimQzyY6TrrFTCGrFR7AQ44fw07wMy_FAQbWgOmGCGRI/s400/IMG_5367.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">量楦頭的肥度</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunKC_PA8pwqpKe6IPdWT26wjGiWTVuLC4_O6NQUWSDp7ZSTnkDlQ4w3CHTGysZLuUQzY_Xvs91cBIP0c9eqp_lptIs_CtiUJZ_qew06g0_Lflnktlx3Bter2viTdvt6H4KS_QuH18TCY/s1600/shoe+lasting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunKC_PA8pwqpKe6IPdWT26wjGiWTVuLC4_O6NQUWSDp7ZSTnkDlQ4w3CHTGysZLuUQzY_Xvs91cBIP0c9eqp_lptIs_CtiUJZ_qew06g0_Lflnktlx3Bter2viTdvt6H4KS_QuH18TCY/s400/shoe+lasting.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">修改的楦頭</span></span></td></tr>
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2.) 楦頭之後,根據楦頭修改鞋面版(以鞋廠現有的鞋款),如果楦頭修改變動大,鞋面的板子就需要重開,這就要麻煩版師開新面版,這是一項大筆花費。<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0sLYSIrJPVOgP6T2fR2Nk3_1q7-vybPROjau_QAQdz2_x3ehbaD2XP57K2_vixfoJkG_I2GQH95bTUPdYb5Ij8O7grJzD4syBEwpg_bAwx5Wkhbz37IQoZhKucFLEQzN8-pRoBXsaveA/s1600/P_20170323_130955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0sLYSIrJPVOgP6T2fR2Nk3_1q7-vybPROjau_QAQdz2_x3ehbaD2XP57K2_vixfoJkG_I2GQH95bTUPdYb5Ij8O7grJzD4syBEwpg_bAwx5Wkhbz37IQoZhKucFLEQzN8-pRoBXsaveA/s400/P_20170323_130955.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;"><span style="font-size: small;">修</span><span style="font-size: small;">改鞋面版</span></span></span></td></tr>
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3.) 鞋面版無論是修改或新版完成,輪到做"鞋面"步驟,這裡皮革的選擇和面工的細膩就可以決定鞋子的質感,我常想"都已經是訂做鞋了,為什麼不對自己的好一點,選擇有質量的皮革,讓自己穿著看起來也貼面?而且,好的皮革愈穿愈質感,透氣有彈性。<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis2g76cUTK9etrNxvldDnqpDxaGkKXKWDcb8RT1VrUNhBB8fzR1BIHAfAFgg9BsiXtc8wId5mSdzG6yNxXTahYdOjYuQxUpSj5I570YqkTTQeGu7m-7W4uYkZwYCaJhXCElrFOU2kgHZw/s1600/%25E6%2589%258B%25E5%25B7%25A5%25E8%25A3%2581%25E5%2589%25AA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis2g76cUTK9etrNxvldDnqpDxaGkKXKWDcb8RT1VrUNhBB8fzR1BIHAfAFgg9BsiXtc8wId5mSdzG6yNxXTahYdOjYuQxUpSj5I570YqkTTQeGu7m-7W4uYkZwYCaJhXCElrFOU2kgHZw/s400/%25E6%2589%258B%25E5%25B7%25A5%25E8%25A3%2581%25E5%2589%25AA.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<u><span style="color: #a64d79; font-size: small;">忍不住發牢</span><span style="color: #a64d79; font-size: small;">騷</span></u><span style="color: #a64d79; font-size: small;">:也不知道?為什麼我們台灣消費者對台灣製造的鞋子會如此要求嚴厲"如果鞋面皮革上有動物的傷</span><span style="color: #a64d79; font-size: small;">疤或筋紋等大都無法接受",但對國外品牌就不會那麼挑剔在意。😕</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">4.) 鞋面完成,到了最後一步驟"鞋底",訂製鞋的鞋底大都是組合底,材料主要分為皮底(植鞣革)和橡膠,皮底價位高,如果有在關注國外高檔皮鞋都使用皮底。大部份台灣手工鞋廠鞋底做法較常見是"手工拉幫",</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: , serif;"><span style="font-size: 16px;">如果是皮底有的會採用拉幫後在大底與中底車縫(類似blake construction),這樣可以更耐穿而且提升質量。</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8V1_GUf_ybi2v7y_kFMm34EOQN2pUdzP5JFcA4FLTXxpz49o8szBw8MDTKMUehRvC8YAioPmohwK3zlCrJkWxS2HbMk0uqdwtlT6ht_KSsvjI2DqRmbJa13LZMAr13kAabk_dqtcoTXM/s1600/%25E6%2589%258B%25E5%25B7%25A5%25E6%258B%2589%25E5%25B9%25AB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8V1_GUf_ybi2v7y_kFMm34EOQN2pUdzP5JFcA4FLTXxpz49o8szBw8MDTKMUehRvC8YAioPmohwK3zlCrJkWxS2HbMk0uqdwtlT6ht_KSsvjI2DqRmbJa13LZMAr13kAabk_dqtcoTXM/s400/%25E6%2589%258B%25E5%25B7%25A5%25E6%258B%2589%25E5%25B9%25AB.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #212121; font-family: , serif; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16px;"><br />
</span></span> <span style="font-size: large;">暸解了訂製鞋的工序,你覺得一雙訂製鞋應值多少?</span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="color: #0b5394; font-size: large;">再來聊聊台灣手工鞋和鞋廠</span></h3>
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手工鞋似乎顧名思義就是手工製作的鞋子,對嗎? 台灣一般定義的手工鞋,如果嚴格的説不完全100%都是手作的,真正應該說是"半手工", 因為隨著時代改變,符合現代大量的需求與時尚趨勢迅速變化, 為了<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">縮短一雙鞋完成的時間,以及人工成本考量,很多手工的部份由機器來輔助。</span><br />
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所謂 "<span style="color: #212121;">工欲善其事,必先利其器",有機器設備的協助讓鞋子的品質更加的穩定,</span>讓手工鞋可以進入量產時代。<br />
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約略介紹製做手工鞋基本設備:</div>
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1.) 裁斷機來裁鞋面皮料<span style="font-family: , serif;">、</span>中底和大底.<br />
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2.) 削薄機來削皮料邊緣.<br />
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3.) 縫紉機來車縫鞋面.<br />
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4.) 打磨機來打粗處理鞋底部份.<br />
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5.) 壓底機來加強鞋大底和鞋面底部貼合度.<br />
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6.) 烤箱來加速鞋子在楦頭上的定型時間.<br />
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7.) 鞋底縫線機來縫紉鞋底<br />
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還有一些配件也是要機器來生產.<br />
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<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">雖然,有了機械設備但大多還是由人工操作,從鞋楦到師傅開鞋版和做鞋面的工藝,底部工藝還是要靠師傅們</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">多年來的經驗與技藝。你相信嗎?同樣的材料,同樣的SOP,交由不同師傅來製作,做出來的鞋子工藝還是會有些許的不同。</span><br />
<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;"><br />
</span> <span style="color: #212121;">上篇文章: </span><br />
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<a data-id="3587765377943685288" data-item-type="post" href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/04/oxfords.html" itemprop="url" rel="bookmark" style="color: #333333; outline: none; text-decoration-line: none; transition: color 0.3s;">牛津鞋oxfords有幾種風格或類型?先從電影和故事了解</a></h1>
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<span 20px="" font-size:=" " style="color: #212121;"><a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2017/04/shoe-last.html" target="_blank">鞋子的舒適,從鞋楦shoe last做起 (一. 腳和鞋楦的關係) </a> </span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區25.1151759 121.5150180000000525.0001919 121.35365650000006 25.2301599 121.67637950000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-35877653779436852882017-04-05T00:21:00.000+08:002017-09-28T16:46:03.294+08:00牛津鞋oxfords有幾種風格或類型?先從電影和故事了解<div class="MsoNormal">
這裡不是介紹電影<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>但想從比較輕鬆的角度來引發興趣或好奇<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,更</span>了解鞋子<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><br />
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<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">電影"擺渡人"</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,在整部劇中前後曾特寫了男主角陳末(梁朝偉飾)</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">二雙牛津鞋: 一雙是雕花牛津鞋(十年前故事回顧裡出現)</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,另一雙則是全裁片式牛津鞋(在慶功會的晚宴上的穿著)</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><br />
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</span></span></span> <span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">拍電影真的要很細膩</span></span></span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">!</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">別小看這樣的場景安排</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,它對應了時代和環境</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>每個世紀年代裡都有當時流行趨勢而鞋子和服飾是最明<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">顯的代表</span>,譬如:17世紀的時尚是什麼? 高跟鞋<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">。法國路易十四是最佳的代表</span></span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><br />
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<span style="color: #134f5c;">這是從電影-擺渡人截圖(1)<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>有些模糊<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>但還是可以看出是翼紋牛津鞋Wingtip Oxfords<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>用金屬配件點綴來替代打孔的雕花<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>讓整雙黑色牛津鞋更具時尚.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #134f5c;">電影-擺渡人截圖(2)<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>這款是全裁片式牛津鞋Whole Cut Oxfords<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>特色是在大底沿條邊緣鑲上金屬錐狀卯釘<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>這種whole cut牛津鞋因為具質感適合在晚宴穿著.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXRQdax6dpBhtEo6FG32dUwAXh1_YQfu5bFivb7eDEDshgDJd8SfBjIOZaCkyvp82ywySS0yD3Jx4KLQi8hvXiNMS0x8vRkPdwTPJRAavJ-L4PfpgXvBM1NR044JMwN-BJq92sl7x_CY/s1600/%25E8%25B7%25AF%25E6%2598%2593%25E5%258D%2581%25E5%259B%259Bheels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXRQdax6dpBhtEo6FG32dUwAXh1_YQfu5bFivb7eDEDshgDJd8SfBjIOZaCkyvp82ywySS0yD3Jx4KLQi8hvXiNMS0x8vRkPdwTPJRAavJ-L4PfpgXvBM1NR044JMwN-BJq92sl7x_CY/s640/%25E8%25B7%25AF%25E6%2598%2593%25E5%258D%2581%25E5%259B%259Bheels.jpg" width="268" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">路易十四的高跟鞋</span></span></td></tr>
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</span> <span style="color: red; font-size: large;">記得去年曾介紹過牛津鞋,看了"擺渡人"裡的牛津鞋<span style="font-family: , serif;">,覺得之前寫的文章有很多不足</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>借此機會再延續~~</span><br />
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<h3>
牛津鞋的故事</h3>
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<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">牛津鞋的開始</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">其實不是那麼明確,一般的說法是</span>起源於蘇格蘭和愛爾蘭,在蘇格蘭的Balmoral Castle巴爾莫勒爾城堡(1856年完成)之後被稱為Balmorals(音譯:巴爾莫勒爾斯)。直到1800s牛津鞋才出現在美國,在美國有時就用”Balmoral”或“Bal-type”稱呼牛津鞋(特別是趾帽牛津鞋toe cap oxfords)。<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsa3CBYgGTxl2qhOQ1CBxO-lVYFBS6TvtULcGQkovo89lF9mfmJ2-zdfR143iGdlhzkD5-cn2R5275QwQuONKB-jcVPFlFFOhY0WbBiTY7QJctEEJctjVAJl0DiG5fiIfMfOkpBo9nRz4/s1600/toe+cap+oxfords+drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="344" data-original-width="400" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsa3CBYgGTxl2qhOQ1CBxO-lVYFBS6TvtULcGQkovo89lF9mfmJ2-zdfR143iGdlhzkD5-cn2R5275QwQuONKB-jcVPFlFFOhY0WbBiTY7QJctEEJctjVAJl0DiG5fiIfMfOkpBo9nRz4/s400/toe+cap+oxfords+drawing.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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從十四世紀中期開始<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>靴子主導了男士鞋子數個世紀,直到1800s牛津大學出現了一種Oxonian的短靴(a half boots)<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,漸漸改變穿靴子文化</span>。<br />
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牛津鞋源自Oxonian,在牛津大學為學生所接受喜愛,靴子在兩側有狹縫,使得他們在校園內行走活動時更舒適。隨著時間的變化,側縫被鞋帶取代,最後移到腳背,鞋跟降低,靴子的筒高也降低露腳踝,Oxfords牛津鞋就這樣產生。<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">Oxonian boots</span></span></td></tr>
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在英國,在十九世紀末牛津鞋才真正受歡迎。到了1910年,已經流行於歐美,1920年,開始有配色款”兩色牛津”(two-tone),穿上後更展現休閒運動風貌<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,譬如</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">:高爾夫球鞋</span>。<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOurlngErigk0u-unWgytSNU2fXgJqSApSHWkdfFXfP4ODT9q5xMB7a30CDoHqCcKuH622_bmg5QWXlB8_bN4XUOpYPWMmzTVexJSZLGHg6ZX1p4xxiw3LqGoTlWCOvwj3iK0kmASdgpc/s1600/golf-shoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOurlngErigk0u-unWgytSNU2fXgJqSApSHWkdfFXfP4ODT9q5xMB7a30CDoHqCcKuH622_bmg5QWXlB8_bN4XUOpYPWMmzTVexJSZLGHg6ZX1p4xxiw3LqGoTlWCOvwj3iK0kmASdgpc/s1600/golf-shoes.jpg" /></a></div>
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牛津鞋因為具有特殊風格,所以越來越受歡迎,都會年輕人 - 不論男女,喜愛牛津鞋的自在,瀟灑,時尚的感覺,讓牛津鞋成為男士鞋類首選。<br />
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牛津的三個主要特徵是 (延伸資料參考<a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2016/07/blog-post.html">牛津鞋</a><span style="font-family: , serif;"><a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2016/07/blog-post.html">≠雕花鞋</a>)</span></h3>
1)封閉的鞋帶 Closed lacing system<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-weight: inherit;">; </span><br />
2)低跟 Low-heeled;<br />
3)腳踝露出 Exposed ankle 。<br />
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牛津鞋有幾種不同的風格:</h2>
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一<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">、</span>素面牛津鞋Plain Oxfords (包含全裁片式牛津鞋Whole Cut Oxfords)</h3>
沒有任何復雜的拼接或雕花裝飾<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,</span><span style="color: #505050; font-family: , serif; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">也就是鞋面没</span><span style="color: #505050; font-family: , serif; letter-spacing: 0.2pt;">有任何的接縫出現,對於使用的皮革及工法要求高</span>。此款簡約的風格是晚宴鞋的不錯選擇。黑色漆皮製成<span style="color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">或用其他色調的拋光皮革,很適合穿著在正式埸合</span>。<br />
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<a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/595c6fae44fc5bf834000005/" target="_blank"><img alt=" 馬靴世家全裁片牛津鞋" border="0" data-original-height="229" data-original-width="343" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivERLmQraFJkLvjHkXhvGzdk0v1IlxS-lvNIYVQVtsLtuRASXrm6i1G96c_6DQUIvsJJ0FrMOTLjs6dABoVHih1ZVadL_wBodW0RUMIMyuDbbyL3d-wzbamqq0JOkmNKZtpXpsk8TiMKc/s400/whole+cut+%25E5%2585%25A8%25E8%25A3%2581%25E7%2589%2587%25E7%2589%259B%25E6%25B4%25A5%25E9%259E%258B.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.botas.tw/product/595c6fae44fc5bf834000005/" target="_blank"><img alt=" 全裁片牛津鞋" border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj93sz48s8AJkKBnTlxygEbo0dypGR4cTG5oudefLx6zfzsAODR_A14216wgmTRm4H-xkaWoBz1k44JY1S9scRYutUnHkBeNytrXY1DvB6CxKRjE_wLstT_82KUb9tqbTIzLglDmQWt8Nc/s400/plain+oxfords.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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二<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">、</span>趾帽牛津鞋Toe cap Oxfords</h3>
是最主流的牛津風格之一。它的腳趾帽上有一片額外的接縫的皮革,可能還有在鞋頭橫線做雕花設計。趾帽牛津鞋是非常適合辦公室的鞋款,較不適合正式活動。特別是黑色趾帽牛津鞋適合在商業場合<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><br />
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三<span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">、</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: 細明體;">翼紋牛津鞋</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wingtip Oxfords</span></h3>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">有一個尖頭腳趾帽,俯視看鞋頭那片</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">蓋子形狀像“W”(從鞋頭角度看)或“M”(從鞋後踵角度看)</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">然後</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">就像翅膀</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">沿鞋的兩側延伸</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,另外</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: 細明體;">它通常被稱為雕花鞋</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Brogues的原因是在像羽翼那片皮革上會有</span><span style="color: #212121; font-family: 細明體;">針孔的裝飾</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">。在</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">視覺上</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">翼紋牛津鞋的風格稍微花俏有變化,有休閒感卻又具時尚</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">不應該把它穿在嚴肅場合和高度的商業環境中</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJQvGMbG0gHI8lcgm7x1L9nA9JXvcyR5SBQ8jBsbnUSJjqcuVq6qz9zvvH9wnaS54spA-CvfUYJgrZrA48pnHXXbkK3OfA4YOHfmFtJt-9WyX6D0Xad5fa1lvA_8hK_U5SqBwgQmWPOo/s1600/0371BOM-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJQvGMbG0gHI8lcgm7x1L9nA9JXvcyR5SBQ8jBsbnUSJjqcuVq6qz9zvvH9wnaS54spA-CvfUYJgrZrA48pnHXXbkK3OfA4YOHfmFtJt-9WyX6D0Xad5fa1lvA_8hK_U5SqBwgQmWPOo/s320/0371BOM-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #212121;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">四 </span></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">、馬鞍牛津鞋</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Saddle Oxfords</span></span></span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">没有</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">任何種類的腳趾帽,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">有額外的一片皮革條</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">(約鞋帶眼的寬度)</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">,穿過鞋子腳背直到鞋底</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: inherit; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">以對比的顏色穿過</span><span style="color: #212121; white-space: pre-wrap;">,</span><span style="color: #212121; white-space: pre-wrap;">造型和馬鞍相<span style="background-color: white;">似</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-size: 16px; white-space: pre-wrap;">。</span><span style="color: #212121; white-space: pre-wrap;">傳統的馬鞍鞋配色是黑白配,隨著時代變化,馬鞍鞋也設計其它的配色。馬鞍鞋屬於休閒鞋款</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">,可以發現很多高爾夫球鞋都是馬鞍鞋樣式</span><span style="color: #212121; font-size: 12pt;">。</span></span></h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8VeKv0wxwZTHhyphenhyphendZrBIiLP3NmhLWXn-HlpgcPs3vcQv01ubScXQmw5I3oC3VEuHpm-zkS7_HNxmXPdlBCyfwrEKbgJIcUZUOzoVC3bR0ITSNLMiXajeRhaOEeQzkERDpHetULdT7K1no/s1600/saddle+shoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8VeKv0wxwZTHhyphenhyphendZrBIiLP3NmhLWXn-HlpgcPs3vcQv01ubScXQmw5I3oC3VEuHpm-zkS7_HNxmXPdlBCyfwrEKbgJIcUZUOzoVC3bR0ITSNLMiXajeRhaOEeQzkERDpHetULdT7K1no/s400/saddle+shoes.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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想對牛津鞋有更多暸解? 還有<a href="http://www.botas.com.tw/2016/07/blog-post.html"> 牛津鞋<span style="font-family: , serif;">≠雕花鞋</span></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區25.1151759 121.5150180000000525.0001919 121.35365650000006 25.2301599 121.67637950000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-84687065503188068902016-10-02T00:28:00.001+08:002017-05-03T11:40:03.555+08:00台灣的訂製鞋 Custom made leather shoes in Taiwan<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">真的需要訂製鞋?</span></h2>
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<span style="color: #45818e; font-size: large;">訂製鞋可以分為兩類</span><span style="color: #45818e; font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">:</span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="color: #45818e; font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">1. 訂製個人獨有的設計款 </span><span style="color: #45818e; font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">2. 腳型特殊</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">今天想先談談腳型特殊的訂製鞋<span style="font-family: , serif;">,屬於姆指外翻</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">、</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">大小腳</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">、輕微長短腳</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">、足弓高低等等</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">。</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">在此排除醫療的矯正鞋的訂製</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">。</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">根據一次量腳的數據就能準確做出符合自己腳型的鞋楦來製作個人專屬鞋子<span style="font-family: , serif;">?</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: , serif;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">多年來為客戶開發生產的製鞋經驗<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>第一次楦頭很少就可以做到精準<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>如果是一般正常的腳型其實問題都不大<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>譬如說<span style="font-family: , serif;">:</span>掉腳或腳姆指有些壓迫等小問題<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>為了客戶穿著舒適感<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>這些情況還是會改進<span style="font-family: , serif;">,然後再試做一次試穿</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">,没問題才進行生產</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">。由此可以推測特殊腳型的楦頭更需要試穿體會舒適與否</span></span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0LeGPto87BOxtSyOHbUlZ-6uwFqcnpclwytB__0AcY1n1p_4U0O9ndSqFKqXm2PqUdAl3_hcOlaCjlvq0t9wwuht2VeovgW70kb5HGxfQty__k9EDfHB3H8dkTMp0-HZke3P9EhRkCvw/s640/engineer+boots+prototype.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: medium;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">試穿樣品鞋</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0LeGPto87BOxtSyOHbUlZ-6uwFqcnpclwytB__0AcY1n1p_4U0O9ndSqFKqXm2PqUdAl3_hcOlaCjlvq0t9wwuht2VeovgW70kb5HGxfQty__k9EDfHB3H8dkTMp0-HZke3P9EhRkCvw/s1600/engineer+boots+prototype.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDJcyPiBCccVTyMaJCrXCizsHBr5HzJRMedXKKf9dot9kxlOW6H70QseYHbYkdOiTtJZ52r19OnRgaqxiM7vZahAZ7NdgXsJFsXOdGyqDHRUcGGWg2wq24CUKUoU23E9hEoJ-QPjaK58/s1600/Chelsea+prototype.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDJcyPiBCccVTyMaJCrXCizsHBr5HzJRMedXKKf9dot9kxlOW6H70QseYHbYkdOiTtJZ52r19OnRgaqxiM7vZahAZ7NdgXsJFsXOdGyqDHRUcGGWg2wq24CUKUoU23E9hEoJ-QPjaK58/s640/Chelsea+prototype.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">從第一次樣品到最後確認可以清楚看到楦型和鞋面板的變化</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">會想要訂製鞋的人<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>大多是腳型特殊的人為了有雙合適的鞋子<span style="font-family: , serif;">(</span>當然<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>也有人是想要有不同設計</span><span style="font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-size: large;">做一雙個人專屬獨有的鞋款</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-size: large;">這類客戶就可以用標準現有的楦頭訂製</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">)</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-size: large;">第一次製作時的楦頭應該要謹慎</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-size: large;">然而對多數接受訂製鞋的賣家或鞋廠而言</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-size: large;">是不可能像國外那麼嚴謹先做一雙簡單試穿鞋給客戶試穿</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,此舉的目地</span><span style="font-size: large;">是為了判斷楦頭合不合腳</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,確認後</span><span style="font-size: large;">才能進行鞋面打版製鞋</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-size: large;">所以楦頭一定要符合訂製者穿著的舒適感</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">。</span><span style="font-size: large;">這雙鞋楦是專屬於訂製者的腳型楦頭</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,之後</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">就可以用此雙鞋楦壐</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: , serif;">做其他鞋款不用再量腳</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u>那為什麼大多數台灣賣家或鞋廠不這麼做<span style="font-family: , serif;">?</span></u>因為那會多些成本外<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>耗時又耗工<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>另一方面還要考量客戶是否能接受高價位及長時間等待<span style="font-family: , serif;">。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">在國外訂製鞋的過程<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>對楦頭是非常嚴謹的<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>一定要試穿滿意<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>才會進行鞋面開板和製作</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><span style="font-family: , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">提供</span></span><span style="font-size: large;">兩家英國百年製鞋 Foster & Son 和 </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "times" , serif; font-size: large;">James Taylor & Son 資訊</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "times" , serif; font-size: large;">可以看出它們對</span><span style="font-size: large;">訂製鞋的態度</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">。</span><br />
<br />
http://foster.co.uk/our-products/bespoke/having-your-bespoke-shoes-made/<br />
http://www.taylormadeshoes.co.uk/bespoke.html<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">台灣鞋廠一般都是量客戶的腳後<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,</span>在楦頭上做些貼貼補補<span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,對於腳型不是很特殊的人</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">,此方法還是可行的</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiajwqKrqIZSyQwByZnoosWMekjqyV1Jhf6pDI7hDyhHhnDaF8z5gul_LBVs9QtR9xSkikFAODXPbqSLmF4CV5UCOCvuww-CnHTRkC6W-ideDITj6u-9A-v2zedFWY6i8eltH_gupNtcaQ/s1600/%25E6%25A5%25A6%25E9%25A0%25AD+READY+TO+ORDER..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiajwqKrqIZSyQwByZnoosWMekjqyV1Jhf6pDI7hDyhHhnDaF8z5gul_LBVs9QtR9xSkikFAODXPbqSLmF4CV5UCOCvuww-CnHTRkC6W-ideDITj6u-9A-v2zedFWY6i8eltH_gupNtcaQ/s400/%25E6%25A5%25A6%25E9%25A0%25AD+READY+TO+ORDER..jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">如果您的腳型和尺碼是正常而且在市面上就可以買得到鞋子<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>不建議花大錢訂製鞋<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>一般來說<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>會選擇訂製鞋的人都是因為買不到讓自己穿著舒適的鞋子</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">順便一提</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">市面上銷售的鞋子大約符合70~60%的人的腳型</span><span style="font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;">。</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="color: #0b5394; font-size: large;"><b>想製</b></span><b style="color: #0b5394; font-size: x-large;">訂</b><b style="color: #0b5394; font-size: x-large;">鞋前先問問自己為什麼要選擇訂製鞋</b><br />
<span style="color: #073763;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">1. 我的腳型很特殊嗎?</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #073763; font-size: large;">2. 市面上買的鞋都讓我穿著不舒適?</span><br />
<span style="color: #073763; font-size: large;">3. 我能負擔訂製鞋的價位和長時間的等待?</span><br />
<span style="color: #073763;"><span style="font-size: large;">4. 我很</span><span style="font-size: large;">在意我腳上的穿著</span><span style="font-size: large;">,除了舒適度外還講究品味</span><span style="font-size: large;">?不會因為腳型特殊只要有鞋穿就好</span><span style="font-size: large;">,</span><span style="font-size: large;">而不在意鞋子款式</span></span><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區25.1151759 121.5150180000000525.0001919 121.35365650000006 25.2301599 121.67637950000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-21917201728601044792016-09-17T19:12:00.000+08:002017-04-24T19:37:49.933+08:00客製化訂製鞋 (訂做鞋) Handmade Leather Shoes<h2>
<span style="color: blue; font-size: x-large;">客製化訂製鞋 (訂做鞋)</span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;">鞋子分為三種不同階層:</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1. Ready to Wear (成鞋)</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: , serif;">即在市面上銷售的鞋子</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">可以立即選購穿著</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">這類鞋子就是量產具標準化</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">有固定的尺碼和款式</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">好處是交貨快速不用等待</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">。</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_VlnubNWW-N7rd_lE0x7OeAVBPU3F5aCRzQ0wexC6e8eNBOUpP4l0SEzDW_GBLghCDWzzrguWi-RA1GY0obcyVwfki0GXl8ODTXIx-epLoXhrtTaG8FAph3axaBQKnqPralxMjn8a2Fw/s1600/%25E8%25A3%2581%25E5%2588%2587%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_VlnubNWW-N7rd_lE0x7OeAVBPU3F5aCRzQ0wexC6e8eNBOUpP4l0SEzDW_GBLghCDWzzrguWi-RA1GY0obcyVwfki0GXl8ODTXIx-epLoXhrtTaG8FAph3axaBQKnqPralxMjn8a2Fw/s400/%25E8%25A3%2581%25E5%2588%2587%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: purple;">量產都用刀模裁切鞋面</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbUr1NpYdjM8MUZWCrQEpY0DezGmkTf1jfvMbw_H6kBbbTaQyI8jKrUYJ2TPO12wk0b34OqUohuq74_NUAWxTkY6Uiis4myceRY53sF5__wXNJ8Au9xea9dADIirQygu_9Ov9v1AiZiE/s1600/ready+to+wear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbUr1NpYdjM8MUZWCrQEpY0DezGmkTf1jfvMbw_H6kBbbTaQyI8jKrUYJ2TPO12wk0b34OqUohuq74_NUAWxTkY6Uiis4myceRY53sF5__wXNJ8Au9xea9dADIirQygu_9Ov9v1AiZiE/s400/ready+to+wear.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: purple;"> 準備定型貼底工作</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejJ7uysS62PRrT4dfSJzBj9ZIX1DNZhuLp5DmQ2UjfLqLD5aaiQVRnz0TKTQG-749PW-ZSrMw3bM6PUt1dyJb7LmpzneIr_wifz6oWPXurrJ43sR6qdVOx4hqnT3yjc-zBvw4-_gcqC4/s1600/ready+to+wear...jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejJ7uysS62PRrT4dfSJzBj9ZIX1DNZhuLp5DmQ2UjfLqLD5aaiQVRnz0TKTQG-749PW-ZSrMw3bM6PUt1dyJb7LmpzneIr_wifz6oWPXurrJ43sR6qdVOx4hqnT3yjc-zBvw4-_gcqC4/s400/ready+to+wear...jpg" width="316" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: purple;">生產過程(鞋面在楦頭上定型)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6Pc6130gZmp7GEAEsydbhVJ8qfz5VBghw5g37sNyjhOwWo6cNhdS-DCNot4JIHsG-x19HS6iGKGywtkw18u501UaRQDBIJ2fsL75Z_Ast81nn1AqbhaEsrJXZUc1O99qVCooYblJuII/s1600/women+boots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6Pc6130gZmp7GEAEsydbhVJ8qfz5VBghw5g37sNyjhOwWo6cNhdS-DCNot4JIHsG-x19HS6iGKGywtkw18u501UaRQDBIJ2fsL75Z_Ast81nn1AqbhaEsrJXZUc1O99qVCooYblJuII/s400/women+boots.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: purple;">整批檢驗整理包裝</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">2. Made to Order (客製成鞋)</span></h3>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">以現有的楦頭</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">,</span>依照<span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">客戶</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">腳</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">型和</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">尺寸微調楦頭</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: , serif;">客戶挑選賣家提供現有的款式訂購下單後才會生產交貨,須要一定的生產期間,有的廠商甚至提供</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: , serif;">以</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: , serif;">現有的款式讓客戶可以自由配色或選用不同材質</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: , serif;">,</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: , serif;">可以滿足喜愛個性化的客戶另一個選擇</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; font-family: , serif;">。</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxItAWWNvJpbZQeR6tZ3RBosNvdHbNkmNfN_9EXt8tCuLbmI4ATDSHzDfMHZI9eSlzyTNu2iGkTwJeBXwj1dk9B05TOre5nx1dHLOS_g380mL25_g1B66dQHExr5HM07xnIYhdJWUX5PA/s1600/%25E6%25A5%25A6%25E9%25A0%25AD+READY+TO+ORDER..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxItAWWNvJpbZQeR6tZ3RBosNvdHbNkmNfN_9EXt8tCuLbmI4ATDSHzDfMHZI9eSlzyTNu2iGkTwJeBXwj1dk9B05TOre5nx1dHLOS_g380mL25_g1B66dQHExr5HM07xnIYhdJWUX5PA/s400/%25E6%25A5%25A6%25E9%25A0%25AD+READY+TO+ORDER..jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: blue; color: white; font-size: large;">量腳後<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>該客戶屬於寬腳和腳背高<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>即在現有的楦頭上貼補<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>這樣微調楦頭可免去重新製作新楦頭的時間和費用<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>但只限於腳型稍微有些不同者<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>譬如<span style="font-family: , serif;">:</span>輕微的姆指外翻<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>腳板較寛者<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>腳背較高者....等等</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: blue; color: white; font-size: large;">註<span style="font-family: , serif;">:</span>楦頭貼補的地方愈多</span><span style="background-color: blue; color: white; font-family: , serif; font-size: large;">,</span><span style="background-color: blue; color: white; font-size: large;">鞋子原有的形狀和氣氛可能會跑掉</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdSqsmUI-vkMy5h82xEfv2esIB04yunNFn-e-0xfdHEzmk-N-6RxKywk8CRib5QX5jRoyFQhIdKLHoSC0fW-cpZxfJn7pRH0IiYgV4D5HYJSrAz1XNvxSnN6XQphm3fI9wN2gPKLD6-s/s1600/ready+to+order.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdSqsmUI-vkMy5h82xEfv2esIB04yunNFn-e-0xfdHEzmk-N-6RxKywk8CRib5QX5jRoyFQhIdKLHoSC0fW-cpZxfJn7pRH0IiYgV4D5HYJSrAz1XNvxSnN6XQphm3fI9wN2gPKLD6-s/s640/ready+to+order.jpg" width="395" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: purple;"> </span><span style="background-color: blue; color: white; font-size: large;">同樣款式選取自己喜愛的顏色<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>也可以配色<span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span>打造屬於自己專有的品味</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz_G_NXvAH6F1wr4KdZ29WWsheaNoFWQ44V8StmflwHcs2FFP0OxK4dLLSzXPoDnixUY5RZsgH6zlj8f20u1Dg4O2zDNDEKz9hPFwACL9FmjdGau9toDB-QyChU8hN2LY5xDXP7EUCBwY/s1600/%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B+ready+to+order.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="507" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz_G_NXvAH6F1wr4KdZ29WWsheaNoFWQ44V8StmflwHcs2FFP0OxK4dLLSzXPoDnixUY5RZsgH6zlj8f20u1Dg4O2zDNDEKz9hPFwACL9FmjdGau9toDB-QyChU8hN2LY5xDXP7EUCBwY/s640/%25E8%25A8%2582%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B+ready+to+order.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: blue; color: white; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: sans-serif;">在不影響整個版型原則上</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: sans-serif;">稍為改變款式(左圖多個趾蓋設計toe cap)</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: sans-serif;">看得出來這是同個楦型?只是多個toe cap和換個皮料兩款靴子感覺變不同了!!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3. Bespoke (量腳訂製鞋)</b></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: , serif;">百分之百為客戶量身訂做<span style="background: white;">,</span>打照自己專屬獨有的鞋子<span style="background: white;">,</span>根據客戶腳的尺碼和腳型製鞋<span style="background: white;">,經由量腳數據和選擇的鞋款</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">(</span><span style="background: white; font-family: , serif;">鞋款樣式可由客戶自行提供圖片或鞋子;有的客戶可能曾經有過的鞋子現已停售,想再擁有類似鞋款</span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">)</span><span style="background: white; font-family: , serif;">製作客戶專屬楦頭,此鞋楦可帶回收藏,日後可以再用此鞋楦訂製不同的鞋款。</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmr2G-1JqmYTiu0hqphcuLTJqlZTeJ16gi73hNiwtSTAtZoV0FKL7B-kJcfv_JJTp1LPOSPEsgsB37wI69vE6m8Wb0pVi059YTcY5mvQOWfRUDvwGWLBcHIj-hMbyJdcrJobdsn6slwzc/s1600/%25E9%2596%258B%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2%25E6%259D%25BF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="341" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmr2G-1JqmYTiu0hqphcuLTJqlZTeJ16gi73hNiwtSTAtZoV0FKL7B-kJcfv_JJTp1LPOSPEsgsB37wI69vE6m8Wb0pVi059YTcY5mvQOWfRUDvwGWLBcHIj-hMbyJdcrJobdsn6slwzc/s400/%25E9%2596%258B%25E9%259E%258B%25E9%259D%25A2%25E6%259D%25BF.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: purple;">根據客戶設計鞋款開鞋面板</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqD2OqS9-JpOf_elRHavFHyw6QXjto2HthaIP0NuxCXjF6y12yT9nDD2a38tKpldlAUE8yKFT5DMVb9l2S7Ut7Pjh53jvl7280SPk8Hch0CGeW0g5hk52CiVRv2w0hXtX02LyrvQFtJ4/s1600/1378474432555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqD2OqS9-JpOf_elRHavFHyw6QXjto2HthaIP0NuxCXjF6y12yT9nDD2a38tKpldlAUE8yKFT5DMVb9l2S7Ut7Pjh53jvl7280SPk8Hch0CGeW0g5hk52CiVRv2w0hXtX02LyrvQFtJ4/s400/1378474432555.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9oh2hsyF3G1qeomBTDI6eB0ibwCsJR9BK9A3DDI3EfTBKZjHyiv0EL1_uPJtzRQHT5lvb4etxjvCjTlQjtE_W49yEACtwa55AC7QxwP-2K4wAOPtPiD2mAMr0LaaytMIvCKbCcQO1gQ/s1600/%25E5%25AE%259A%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B+bespoke.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9oh2hsyF3G1qeomBTDI6eB0ibwCsJR9BK9A3DDI3EfTBKZjHyiv0EL1_uPJtzRQHT5lvb4etxjvCjTlQjtE_W49yEACtwa55AC7QxwP-2K4wAOPtPiD2mAMr0LaaytMIvCKbCcQO1gQ/s400/%25E5%25AE%259A%25E8%25A3%25BD%25E9%259E%258B+bespoke.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: large;"><b><span style="background: blue; font-family: "新細明體" , "serif";">上圖</span></b><span style="background: blue; font-family: "新細明體" , "serif";">是客戶提供的鞋款,底部已經售磨損斷裂但客戶仍喜愛此款可惜市面上已經停售,<b>下圖</b>是與客戶溝通協調後客戶訂製類似的款式,但大底屬於它牌自有的底模,市面上無法取得,只能找現有類似大底取代,依客戶要求在鞋口加高並內加泡棉,讓鞋子看起來更加厚實有質感</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<h4>
<span style="color: #0b5394; font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: , serif;">註</span><span style="background: white; font-family: , serif;">:一般人的迷思認為特殊腳型才能量腳訂製鞋</span><span style="background: white; font-family: , serif;">,其實</span><span style="background: white; font-family: , serif;">,不全然是如此</span><span style="background: white; font-family: , serif;">,即便您是標準腳型和尺碼卻想要擁有自己獨有鞋款</span><span style="background: white; font-family: , serif;">,仍然可以訂做鞋子</span></span></h4>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-72465012940121768482016-07-26T23:59:00.000+08:002017-09-28T16:49:11.046+08:00牛津鞋 ≠ 雕花鞋 Oxfords vs. Brogues<h2>
<span style="background-color: #cfe2f3; font-size: x-large;">牛津鞋 <span style="font-family: , serif;"><span style="color: red;">≠ </span>雕花鞋</span></span></h2>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: , serif;">說到雕花鞋(Brogue shoes)要從帽趾(cap toe)來分辦</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: , serif;">分為三種:</span></span><br />
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</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">一. 素面趾帽雕花(plain): 在趾帽邊緣有雕花</span></span><br />
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二. 半雕花(semi brogue or half brogue): 除了趾帽邊緣雕花, 並且趾帽中間位置有雕飾圖案</span></span><br />
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三. <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 26px;">W翼</span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; line-height: 26px;">型雕花(full brogue): 在W翼</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; line-height: 26px;">型的(wing tip)趾帽雕花</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , "lihei pro" , "pmingliu" , sans-serif; line-height: 26px;"><span style="color: red; font-size: x-large;">註: </span></span><br />
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</span></span><span style="color: purple; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 26px;"><u>趾帽(toe cap): </u></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: large; line-height: 26px;">指鞋面前頭差不多在腳趾的位置接上一片皮革</span></span><br />
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</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 26px;"><u><span style="color: purple;">橫飾趾帽(straight toe cap): </span></u></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 26px;">在</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #545454; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">腳趾的位置接上一片半圓形的皮革,這片皮革在鞋頭呈現一</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #545454; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; line-height: 18px;">條</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #545454; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; line-height: 18px;">橫線跨過.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #cccccc;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; line-height: 26px;">在工作上時與師傅溝通我們都描述</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; line-height: 26px;">在鞋子上切頭 XD</span></span><br />
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<h2>
<span style="background-color: #fff2cc; color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">什麼鞋款可以雕花?</span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;">運用雕花(Brogue)可以讓鞋子產生很多不同的變化</span><br />
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<li><span style="color: purple; font-size: large;">流蘇雕花樂福鞋</span></li>
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<li style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: purple; font-size: large;">雕花短靴</span></li>
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<li><span style="color: purple; font-size: large;">雕花德比鞋</span></li>
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<li><span style="color: purple; font-size: large;">雕花牛津鞋</span></li>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區25.1151759 121.5150180000000525.0001919 121.35365650000006 25.2301599 121.67637950000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3265530430886560971.post-27249077780974717742016-01-23T01:00:00.000+08:002017-05-08T11:13:56.402+08:00牛津鞋vs德比鞋的不同 Oxfords vs. Derbies遇過好幾個朋友搞不懂牛津鞋和德比鞋,認為鞋頭像麥當勞M型雕花就是牛津鞋,<span style="color: red;">圖片裡分得出來哪一個是牛津鞋?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMF6Gzg1nKA_bPteQHgSALYL0GXvLDapsZP74DyLswnjmQcL16AMIAAgWhz4uyjxBcjOK94_VU5raw1lW4UpnpFZQ1d5nmSd258c5IEO4Gf9XG9lrveI-pmNToCc62Rd2bqHYtIufKNIg/s1600/Oxford+vs+Derby.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMF6Gzg1nKA_bPteQHgSALYL0GXvLDapsZP74DyLswnjmQcL16AMIAAgWhz4uyjxBcjOK94_VU5raw1lW4UpnpFZQ1d5nmSd258c5IEO4Gf9XG9lrveI-pmNToCc62Rd2bqHYtIufKNIg/s640/Oxford+vs+Derby.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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答案: 右邊深咖啡色是牛津鞋<br />
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在繫帶鞋款中"<span style="color: blue;">牛津鞋</span>"和"<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">德比鞋</span></span>"算是經典款也是基本款.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioA6CFP0YSfeWWPKbb6WhjF7SErh8mSwep-U_fCmwz5cu5e-GXmxGZ54vW8FA70gc9ID1ZDzCLduaems1EVhMLhct70-Jfl4AVFc5j1NbC98Gn-Dgxp69WzbwSLpxQF5NLBHac8fW_phY/s1600/derby+vs+oxford.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="596" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioA6CFP0YSfeWWPKbb6WhjF7SErh8mSwep-U_fCmwz5cu5e-GXmxGZ54vW8FA70gc9ID1ZDzCLduaems1EVhMLhct70-Jfl4AVFc5j1NbC98Gn-Dgxp69WzbwSLpxQF5NLBHac8fW_phY/s640/derby+vs+oxford.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; font-size: large;"><b style="background-color: #fce5cd;">牛津鞋 (Oxfords)</b></span><br />
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<li>牛津的特徵是它的鞋帶的左右兩翼是封閉式,<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">加上5組對稱鞋眼</span>,<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">鞋帶繫緊時兩翼合閉相對</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">,遮住鞋舌只有上端鞋口可以看見鞋舌.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">牛津鞋適合腳型比較瘦長(即腳背比較低)的人穿著.</span></li>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">牛津鞋是屬於較正式場合或節慶的鞋款,具英式紳士風格.長褲搭配得宜更凸顯穿著者的品位.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-size: large;"><b style="background-color: #fce5cd;">德比鞋 (Derbies)</b></span><br />
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<li>德比鞋源自於1850's狩獵靴,後來慢慢發展成現今德比鞋,並且成為<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">歐洲流行的一種繫帶鞋款,</span>德比鞋和牛津鞋最大不同是鞋帶兩翼是開放式,開放式的鞋襟可以利用鞋帶調整穿著時的鬆緊.</li>
<li>德比鞋適合腳掌較寬的腳型或腳背高的人穿著.</li>
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喜愛舒適穿脫方便的人德比鞋是很合適的選擇,現在的德比鞋款有很多不同的設計,譬如素面(Plain, cap toe) 雕花(full-brogues, semi-brogues)等等. <span style="color: red;">後面會陸續介紹.</span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13600125121577104200noreply@blogger.com0112台灣台北市北投區25.1151759 121.5150180000000525.0001919 121.35365650000006 25.2301599 121.67637950000005